Darla’s Daisy Square- Moogly CAL 2022

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I feel really honored to be joining the Moogly CAL again this year, and I have decided to crochet my Darla’s Daisy Square! This adventure is a great way to learn new skills and make an afghan over the year. Check out all the blocks here. (Check out Moogly’s version of this square here)

Darla’s Daisy square was inspired by the fact that I needed a bit of cheeriness before the coming Spring. I find that there is no better way to bring in some cheeriness then a square inspired by flowers and bright colors. Granted, Darla is a friend and student that has studied to become a Master Gardener, so I am sure that I can find a few more flowers to brighten up my day.

If you like what you see, please consider signing up for my monthly newsletter and following by crochet journey.

Darla’s Daisy Square

Materials

  • Red Heart With Love, Medium weight 100% acrylic yarn
    • #1207 Cornsilk (A)
    • #1907 Boysenberry (B)
    • #1001 White (C)
    • #1538 Lilac (D)
    • #1562 Jadeite (E)
  • Hook J/10/6.00mm

Gauge: 12”x 12” square (30.5 x 30.5cm)

Notes

The squares starts in the round, then works only 2 sides of the square as rows.

The petals in Round 3 are created by working stitches around a double crochet post, then working a second row of stitches atop those just created, before repeating on a new post stitch.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, ch 4, sl st to first ch to form ring (like to start a circle another way? check out interchangeable options), ch 1, (sc, ch 1) eight times in ring, sl st to join, fasten off. -8sc, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 2: With B, join to any ch-1 sp (check out joining with a standing double crochet instead), ch 4 (counts as dc +ch 1), dc in same sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to join, fasten off. -16 dc, 8 ch-1 sps

Watch for the back and forth of the petals- crochet the daisy!

Rnd 3: With C, join around the post of any dc, ch 1 (check out joining with a standing single crochet instead), fpsc around post of dc st, (fphdc, fpdc) around same post of dc, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, (petal made), turn, [sk 1 dc post, (sc, hdc, dc) around next dc post, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, (petal made), turn] 7 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 petals (consisting of 2 rows each, first row has 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, second row has 6 dc)

Completed “1st Row” of petal, stitches worked around a double crochet post.
Completed “2nd row” of petal…work has been turned.
Start the next petal….

Now we set up some corners on the crochet daisy square

Rnd 4: With D, join to the final st of any petal, ch 6 (counts as dc, and ch-3 sp), dc in same sp (corner made), ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made), [ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made)] 2 times, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sl st to join. – 4 corners, 8 sc, 16 ch-2 sps, 4 dc on sides (1 dc on each side)

Rnd 5: Ch 3, [(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp of corner, dc in each st and 2 dc in each ch-2 sps across to ch-3 corner sp] 4 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -68 dc, 4 ch-1 sps 

Rnd 6: With A, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, {[ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1} three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -40 sc, 36 ch-1 sps

Rnd 7: With C, join to to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, [(2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner] 2 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -88 dc, 4 ch1 sps

Rnd 8: With B, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1, {(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1} 3 stimes, sl st to join, fasten off. -52 sc, 48 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 sps

Only working 2 sides of the crochet daisy square as part of the Moogly CAL

Row 9: With A, join to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp, fasten off. – 56 dc, 1 ch-1 sp

Row 10: With E, join first st of Row 9, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 13 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, fasten off. -30 sc, 28 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

Row 11: With B, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 10, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -60 dc

Row 12: With C, join to the first st of Row 11, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, fasten off. -32 sc, 30 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

Row 13: With D, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 12, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -64 dc

Row 14: With A, join to the first st of Row 13, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 16 times, fasten off. -34 sc, 32 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

All the way around again- Crochet the Daisy Square for the Moogly CAL

Rnd 15: With E, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 14, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in next st, working down the end rows 9-14, evenly work 6 dc (to keep a visual pattern work 3 groups of 2 dc), 2 dc in the ch 3 sp of Rnd 8 (this sp will have the end of Row 9 worked in it), 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across to ch-3 corner sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 corner sp, 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across including the ch-3 sp or round 8 (this sp will also have the first stitches of Row 9), evenly work 6 dc over end of rows 9-14, 2 dc in the same stitch as the join (beginning of Rnd 15), ch 1, join, fasten off. -144 dc, 4 ch-1 sps

Crochet Unspoken Words The Free Pattern

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Crochet Unspoken Words, the free pattern. Often I find that crochet can speak emotions when I cannot, and it really does speak from the heart. At times when I am overwhelmed emotionally I can easily find my fingers and hands nimbly moving a hook with yarn to work through my feeling and sharing them with others.

I know that I am not alone in this feeling. Many use crochet for charity and gift giving, however I recently found myself crocheting due to natural disaster.

When I learned my friend lost her home during the Northern California Caldor fire this last August I felt at a loss. My heart was heavy for the undertaking she was facing, so I created an afghan to wrap an eternal hug.

Unspoken Words Throw

Just some pattern insight

I know that many find themselves in similar situations, so I thought I would share the pattern. It is a 2 row repeat just changing the straight edge stitches from single to double crochet, while having the same stitches used at the “valleys” and “peaks” of this ripple pattern. The colors are alternated between three colors, there is no need to cut the yarn, just carry it up the side (learn how here).

Unspoken Words Throw

Finished size: approximately 55”x55”

Materials

  • K/10 1/2 /6.5mm crochet hook
  • Medium Weight yarn in 3 colors, 600 yrds of each color. (Sample created in Plymouth Encore 75% acrylic, 25% wool (100g/3.5oz/200yd) yarn, 3 skeins each of color #848, 1204, 1232)

Special Stitches

Back Loop 3 double crochet together over center (blodc3togcenter)– yo, insert hook into back loop of next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops, yo insert hook into top of decrease worked 2 rows below, yo pull up a loop, yo pull through 2, yo, insert hook into back loop of next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull up 2 loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Step One: yarn over, insert hook into first back loop
Yarn over, insert hook into top of decrease 2 rows below
Yarn over, insert hook in last back loop
Completed Back Loop 3 double crochet together over center stitch

Abbreviations

  • ch(s)=chain(s)
  • sc= single crochet
  • blodc= back loop double crochet
  • blosc= back loop single crochet
  • blsc2tog= back loop 2 single crochet together
  • bpdc= back post double crochet
  • fpdc= front post double crochet
  • sk= skip
  • st(s)= stitch(es)
  • rep=repeat

Crochet Unspoken Words -the Free Pattern

Row 1: Ch 160, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, 3 dc in next ch, sc in next 7 chs, [sk 3 chs, sc in 7 sts, 3 dc in next ch, sc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, change color, turn.

The (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around the next stitch….

The Repeat Begins

Row 2: Ch 2, working back loops, blodc in next st, blodc in next 6 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blodc in next 7 sts, [blodc3togcenter, blodc in next 7 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blodc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, dc2tog, change color, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, blsc2tog, blosc next 6 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blsc in next 7 sts, [blodc3togcenter, blosc in next 7, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blsc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, sc2tog, change color, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3, changing colors every row, alternating between three colors, until desired length.

Crochet Unspoken Words, the free pattern

Edging for Crochet Unspoken Words free pattern

Worked sc evenly around entire afghan. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Holiday Stashdown-Transmute Cowl

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When the weather cools down I know it is time to join the Holiday Stashdown CAL again! This year I am sharing with you, the Transmute Cowl. If you enjoy this block design, check out the Transmute Square Throw for a larger project.

Transmute Cowl

What is the Holiday Stashdown?

Every Monday and Thursday from October 4 through December 16, 2021, a new free crochet pattern is shared by a different designer. Each pattern will be a one-skein project, or a stashbuster/scrappy project, so you can work from your own existing yarn stash to make a great winter holiday gift, decoration, or wrap. If you’d like to go ahead and buy some yarn just for the project, we won’t stop you! We love yarn as much as you do.

We’ve teamed up with 18 wonderful companies – AdKnits, Babé Crochet, BonnieKreger, Brown Sheep Company, Inc., Chetnanigans, EngravingForYou, Eucalan, GurumiSupply, Hooked for Life Publishing, JitterBeanMugs, KnitPal, Knitter’s Relief Balm, Kraemer Yarns, Space Cadet, SweetBrieCreations, TheCrafterWithinUs, Unicorn, and Walnut Farm Designs – to gather 19 amazing prizes for our end-of-CAL giveaway. Don’t forget to enter the giveaway in this post on Underground Crafter by 11:59 p.m. on Friday, December 31, 2021!

How to Join the 2021 Holiday Stashdown

  • You can join in by crocheting the patterns as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CALCentralCrochet and #HolidayStashdownCAL on all social media.
  • If you’d like to chat with other crocheters, join the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group, or visit this thread in the CAL Central Ravelry group.
  • By the end of the CAL, you’ll have up to 22 gifts, decorations, or wrap projects for the winter holidays. 

Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the end-of-CAL giveaway, and to get links to each Holiday Stashdown CAL pattern as it is released.

Transmute Cowl

A lacy miter square is highlighted in this 1 skein project! Each square is worked adjacent to the previous, meaning that there is no cutting and joining….so less ends to weave in!

Transmute Cowl

Materials

  • H/5/5.00 crochet hook
  • Berroco Sesame light weight 43% wool, 39% cotton, 9% acrylic, 9% nylon yarn (230yrds/210m/3.5oz/100g) 1 skein #7430 Pickled Ginger

Notes

Ch-1 sp count as stitches when working double crochet 5 together; this stitch is noted as a decrease

First Block

Row 1: Ch 63, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 26 chs, dc5tog over next 5 chs, dc in last 28 sts, turn. -28 dc per side of decrease

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1, now and throughout), sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 11 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 12 times, dc in last st, turn. -12 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 11 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 12 times, turn. -24 dc per side of decrease

Continuing the open spaces

Row 4: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 9 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 10 times, dc in last st, turn. -10 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 9 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 10 times, turn.-20 dc per side of decrease

Row 6: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 7 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 8 times, dc in last st, turn. -8 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 7 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc sp] 8 times, turn. -16 dc per side of decrease

Opening up again

Row 8: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 5 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 6 times, dc in last st, turn. -6 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 9: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 5 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 6 times, turn. -12 dc per side of decrease

Row 10: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 3 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 4 times, dc in last st, turn. -4 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 11: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 3 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 4 times, turn. -8 dc per side of decrease

Making some more spaces

Row 12: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 2 times, dc in last st, turn. -2 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 13: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, dc5tog over next 5 sts, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in last st, turn. -4dc per side of decrease

Row 14: Ch 3, dc in next st, sk 5 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn. -2 dc per side of decrease

Row 15: Ch 2, dc4tog. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

Transmute Cowl

Next Block

Note:

Row 1 will work down the edge of the chain as well as along the edge of the adjacent block

Row 1:  Ch 33, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 26 chs, dc5tog over next 5 chs (this will consist of last 2 chains, the stitch that the chain is created from and 2 stitches working along the edge of the adjacent block), dc 28 sts evenly across edge, turn. -28 dc per side of decrease

Repeat Rows 2-15 of First block.

Repeat “Next Block” 2 more times, to have 4 completed blocks. Making sure that when working the Row 1 of both Block 3 and 4 that the edge chosen creates an overall rectangle.

Fast off. Seam Block 4 to Block 1. Block if desired.

Crochet- Puffs, Bobbles and Popcorns

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Crochet Puffs, Bobbles, and Popcorns are great ways to add texture for fabric. The differences between these stitch techniques is subtle, but help vary the size.

This stitches add great texture, and can even be worked in Tunisian Crochet.

Texture in crochet, the big one is a forward facing Popcorn, followed by the medium size Bobble and a smaller size Puff.

Crochet Puffs

Puff stitch is many loops that are added to a hook. Beginning this stitch is very much like a single crochet, by inserting the hook and pulling through a loop. The process of adding loops happens by yarning over the hook and reinserting the hook into the same stitch, yarning over and pulling through a loop. Repeat This step a number of times. Finish by a final yarn over and pulled through all the loops.

Many loops are added to the hook to create the Puff stitch.
The Puff stitch is completed by yarning over and pulling through all the loops on the hook.

The more loops the fatter the puff stitch can be.

Fatter stitches can also be created by yarn weight. A thin yarn may not need as many loops as a lighter weight yarn to create a nice texture.

Another nice feature is that this stitch is reversible.

A completed Puff stitch

Crochet Bobbles

Bobbles are incomplete double crochet stitches worked in the same stitch. Work like a double crochet in the beginning. Work a double crochet until there is 2 loops left on the hook. Yarn over, insert you hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Then yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leaving remaining loops unworked repeat the process.

A set of partially completed double crochets create the base for this stitch.

Bobble stitches naturally push themselves to the back of the fabric, and have more roundness by working an odd number of partially completed double crochet stitches.

A completed Bobble

Crochet Popcorns

Creating popcorn stitches is actually a unique twist on shell stitches. Create this large texture bump by making a shell of double crochets. Remove the hook from the working loop and reinserted in the top of the first double crochet of the shell. The direction you insert the crochet hook in this stitch is what actually determines what side of the fabric the popcorn pushes to. Inserting the hook from the front to the back creates a forward facing popcorn, while inserting from the back to front creates a backward facing popcorn.

Reinserting the hook into the first double crochet of the shell, from front to back, creates a forward facing popcorn.

Reinsert the hook in the working loop and pull it through the stitch. This closes the top of the stitch.

Pull the working loop through the stitch to “close” the “shell” and create the popcorn.

Just as the bobble, by creating an odd number of double crochet stitches the popcorn can be more rounded.

Crochet Puffs, Bobbles, and Popcorns stitches can dress up many projects and can be added just about anywhere on just about anything.

Tunisian Puffs, Bobbles, and Popcorns

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Creating Tunisian puffs, bobbles and popcorns is relatively straight forward. They are an easy way to create texture in Tunisian Crochet. These three stitches all stand off the fabric, but vary in size.

Essentially this is an approach of working standard crochet within Tunisian. Working the texture stitches on the forward pass.

Tunisian Texture: Top: Popcorn, middle: Bobble, bottom: Puff

Tunisian Puffs

To work a Tunisian Puff Stitch yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch and yarn over and pull through a loop. This is basically working a yarn over before pulling up the loop of whatever Tunisian stitch you are working. (All the photo samples are worked with Tunisian Simple Stitch). Repeat this same technique multiple times in the same space. The last step is to yarn over and pull through all the loops you have worked in this stitch (including the first yarn over).

(Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over pull up a loop) repeat 3 times, yarn over, pull through 6 loops.
Competed Tunisian Puff Stitch

Tunisian Bobbles

Creating a Tunisian Bobble stitch requires a yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loop. This is much like many incomplete double crochet stitches. The techniques is repeated until the bobble is the desired size, and completed with a yarn over and pull through of all the partially completed stitches in the Tunisian stitch.

(Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops) repeat 5 times, yarn over and pull through 5 loops
Completed Tunisian Bobble stitch

Check out the traditional crochet Bobble stitch for a comparison.

Tunisian Popcorns

Working a Tunisian Popcorn stitch, as you might expect is like working a traditional crochet Popcorn. However there is a slight difference. Start with a yarn over, and insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat this step one more time, then yarn over and pull through the last 3 loops on the hook. (The reason for this is that Tunisian does not typically complete stitches in the forward pass, as such the next adjacent loop on the hook is the loop of the previous stitch). This will complete 2 double crochet stitches together. Work a few more double crochets in this stitch, remove hook from last loop of completed double crochet, insert hook into the top of the 2 double crochets worked together, and pull the loop through.

(Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops) 2 times, Yarn over pull through 3 loops, work 3 double crochets in same stitch, remove hook from last loop, insert hook into first completed stitch in this demonstration, pull last loop through.
Completed Tunisian Popcorn Stitch

All return passes are worked the same, and the stitches are all pushed toward the front of the fabric. Notice that the texture lines up with the vertical lines of the Simple stitch in the photos. This helps to easily see where the stitches are located.