Have a little yarn? Needing a quick gift? Want to get ready for cold weather? Crochet Fingerless gloves are the prefect answer.
I have created a few patterns for fingerless, and even fingered gloves over the years, but you can create your own custom fit pair pretty easily. All you need to do is create a rectangle.
That seems almost a little too simple, but this version of fingerless gloves really are that simple.
Want to follow a pattern instead, here are some of my glove patterns:
There are essentially two different approaches to creating gloves. One is to work in the round, making a tube. This approach needs a little more attention to detail, as the tube needs to adjust in size a bit to feel like a nice fit. When working from the cuff to palm there needs to be an increase a couple of rounds before the thumb and then create a loop for the thumb, while decrease a couple of stitches to help the gloves fit the fingers.
However if you work a rectangle in the length you want your gloves and continue until the width can wrap around your hand, then you can make a glove.
Pin the fabric on either side the thumb and seam the fabric together on either side.
Make your Gloves
This rectangle can be created in any stitch pattern, so you have complete creative control. If you want a bit of extra stretch I would recommend working a fabric of back loop single crochet. It offers a ribbing like effect and allows for a comfortable fit.
Then the beginning row is folded over to the last row. I place my hand in this fold and use stitch markers to mark either side of my thumb, essentially marking the opening for my thumb. Then it is as simple as seaming the edges together with the exception of the thumb opening.
It really is that simple.
I have found to step these gloves up a bit more, I find a yarn that has a great color change, or nice texture. This makes the rectangle that can really be something that is fabulous.
Tunisian Crochet is a technique that always has something bold to offer. It seems to be a bit cyclical in the design world, making a splash every few years. With every splash creating a great surge in creativity, and the new digital release of The Tunisian Collect from I Like Crochet Magazine is no exception.
I am fortunate enough to have 2 designs in this publication.
A Teenager Loved Pillow
The Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow is one that my teenage son liked enough that he had me make some for his room (this is always a huge reward for my work…that the kids actually like it). It really only uses two Tunisian stitches, a Simple Stitch and a Purl Stitch to create this visual effect. In addition it uses a large hook size, so it works up pretty quickly.
Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow
I like the edging that seams the two sides as you work it,
and the tassels were a definite highlight for my son, so maybe it is a new
trending feature.
A Fun Hat
The In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat is one that is a real skill builder. It works what I mistakenly thought was the most basic stitch in Tunisian until I learned more about it, the Full Stitch. This stitch creates a pattern of little lines that do not directly stack atop one another, but are off-set. I have always loved the look.
In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat
This pattern though has a little twist, it is worked in the
round. Working in the round is not something that is commonly worked in Tunisian
crochet, as it is a technique worked by loading up loops on the hook and then
working it back off. So you never turn the work, and it is easiest to work flat.
I have always had a soft spot for Rabbits, and as such I have always loved this time of year as it brings out Easter Bunnies everywhere. I have created a simple free pattern for a toy bunny, that might be just perfect for a little one in your life. This is an amigurumi for the beginner, as it has minimal shaping, I like the rustic charm.
Jack the Scrap Rabbit and Jack the Rabbit
This free pattern is part of the 2020 Softie CAL! There are many great designs to keep you inspired, check all of them out here. Also, don’t miss the giveaways.
Materials
Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium 100% acrylic medium weight yarn (3.5 oz/100g/219yd/200m) colors: MC-#126 Goldmine, CC1-#98 Cream, CC2-#142 Boysenberry, CC3- #109 Coastal (OR, make a Scrap Jack, by using any medium weight yearn on hand)
Poly-Fils Crafters Choice Dry Polyester Packing Fiber Fill
G/6/4.25mm crochet hook
Note…Save your time weaving in ends. Instead of weaving in ends, simply push the ends to the wrong side of the fabric, when seaming and stuffing ensure that the ends are with the stuffing.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten off. -70 dc
Back (Make 1)
Round 1: With MC,
Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14
dc
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join. -70 dc
Round 6: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc
Belly (Make 1)
Round 1: With CC1,
Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14
dc
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join, change to MC. -70 dc
Round 6: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc
Two heads, a Belly and a Back
Joining Head to Body
With Right sides facing each other, stack 1 Head on the
Back, working through stitches of both fabrics, sl st in 10 stitches. Repeat
with last Head and Belly.
Join a head to a body, with rights sides facing each other when joining.
With Wrong Sides facing each other, stack the 2 sides on top
of each other, working through stitches of both fabrics, sc around the entire
outer edge of sides, filling with poly-fil before completely finishing. (Tip:
Begin joining near neck to ensure that the neck of both sides matchup)
Putting the wrong sides facing each other of head/body seam the body together and stuff it as you go.
Arms/Legs
Working in the joining round of Head and Body, find your
personal placement for 2 legs and 2 arms. You will work a front side and back
side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.
Front Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in front loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 7-18: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.
Back Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in back loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 7-18: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.
Ears
Working in the joining round of Head find your personal placement for 2 ears. You will work a front side and back side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.
Special Stitches
Single Crochet Two Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, [insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop] twice, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Front Side
Row 1: With CC1, working
in front loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 7-15: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc
Row 17: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 18: Ch 1,
sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog
Row 19: Ch 1, sc
in only st, fasten off.
Back Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in back loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 7-15: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 16: Ch 1,
sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc
Row 17: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 18: Ch 1,
sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog
Row 19: Ch 1, sc
in only st, fasten off.
Working two side of each arm/leg/ear, join to the seam of the body. One side in a front loop, one side in a back loop.
Seaming All Arms/Legs/Ears
With CC2, join to any edge seam of body or head, sc in each
st across to next arm/leg/ear, working through both fabrics, evenly sc in ends
of rows and stitches, filling with poly-fil before completing seaming, continue
all the way around body, sl st to join. Fasten off.
Working all around the edge of the body, seam and stuff the arms/legs/ears
Upper Lip (Mustache)
With CC1 Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next 3
chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sl st in next ch, sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk
next 3 chs, sc in last ch. Fasten off. With Shells facing downward, whip stitch
lip to face.
Tail
Round 1: With
CC1, Magic loop, ch 3, 8 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to join.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. Fasten off. Whip stitch tail to back of body, filling with poly-fil
before completing seaming.
Tail and Upper LIp
Nose
With CC2, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten
off. Whip stitch at sl st of lip.
Eyes (Make 2)
With CC3, ch 3, 5 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten off. Whip stitch to face.
To help you celebrate
National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet
skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Short
Rows, in both traditional and Tunisian Crochet.
First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for
this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or
hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t
miss a day, check out the participants here.
There are some terms that can be a bit intimidating the
fiber arts, short rows can be one of them. However, they really are quite
straight forward.
What Makes it Special
Learning how to work short rows in crochet will help expand
crochet skills by adding subtle shaping in garments and the ability to create
dramatic effects in just about any work you wish.
A short row is exactly as it sounds, you work your row
short. Meaning you do not finish the row.
Sometimes this is worked by tapering the stitch height, by
working shorter and shorter stitches until they are near a slip stitch. The
work is turned, and possibly started by tapering the stich height upward, it is
completed.
Working As A Dart
In the case of using short rows as is seen in sewing as if a
dart, or a point in fabric, you work un-worked stitches. The next row works to
the point where two rows below the row was worked short, then it continues to
the remained of the stitches not worked three rows below.
Making A Wedge…
In the case of making a triangular shape, a multiple of
short rows are worked, so that there are fewer stiches in each row. I often use
this approach in creating shawls, essentially creating triangular wedges that I
then build atop one another.
It is this last approach that I also use to create
washcloths and potholders. I create “wedges” of triangles that work on one
another to eventually create a circle.
Starting Your Circle
Using any yarn, with a comparable size hook, these patterns are great for scrap yarns. You can adjust the size by adjusting the number of beginning chains as the foundation. Just remember that this is only half the size of the finished product, and you will remove one stitch per row on the same edge of the fabric. It can be used utilizing either traditional crochet or Tunisian, and I share a quick pattern for both below.
Short Row Washcloth/Potholder
Short Row Crochet Washcloth/Potholder- Worked in Wedges
First Wedge
Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -15 sc
Row 2: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -14 sc
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -13sc
Row 4: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -12 sc
You Should Start Seeing the “Stair Stepping”
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -11sc
Row 6: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -10 sc
Don’t work the last stitch, and slip stitch in the first stitch of the next row…removing one stitch in each row on the same edge of the fabric.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -9sc
Row 8: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -8 sc
Over Halfway on the First Wedge….
Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -7sc
Row 10: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -5sc
Row 12: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Almost There…
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -3sc
Row 14: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -2 sc
Row 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, turn. -1 sc
Row 16: Sl st in same st, turn.
Second Wedge
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in the edge stitch of Rows 15-1 (essentially either the stitch skipped in a row, or the slip stitch after the row is turned), turn. -15 sc
Row 18-32: Rep Rows 2 through 16 of wedge 1.
Wedges 3-8
Repeat Second Wedge.
Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.
Tunisian Short Row Washcloth/Potholder
Short Row Tunisian Crochet Washcloth/Potholder
These same principals apply to Tunisian crochet as well.
First Wedge
Row 1: Ch 15, pick up loops in each ch across. RP. -15 sts
Row 2: Tss in next 13 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -14 tss
Row 3: Tss in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -13 tss
Row 4: Tss in next 11 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -12 tss
Still not working the last stitch…
Row 5: Tss in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -11 tss
Row 6: Tss in next 9 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -10 tss
Don’t work the last stitch of each row of Tunisian crochet, then begin the regular Return Pass. Thus removing 1 stitch from each row on the same edge of the fabric.
Row 7: Tss in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -9 tss
Row 8: Tss in next 7 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -8 tss
Are you seeing the angle?
Row 9: Tss in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -7 tss
Row 10: Tss in next 5 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -6 tss
Row 11: Tss in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -5 tss
Row 12: Tss in next 3 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -4 tss
Almost finished the first wedge…
Row 13: Tss in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -3 tss
Row 14: Tss in next 1 st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -2 tss
Row 15: Tss in same st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -1 tss
Second Wedge
Row 16: Pick up loops in each unworked stitch of rows below. RP.-15tss
Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America,
by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free
pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with
you, I just ask that make one for donation.
Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that
encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their
office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through
the United States.
Quick Weave Block
Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or
blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community
that accept donations.
The Basket Weave Stitch
Utilizing stitch
placement is all that makes this pattern appear. It is essentially only a
double crochet stitch, however it is worked around the body or post of the
stitch a row below. There are two different stitches, the back post and the
front post.
The back post pushes
the post away from the fabric facing. This is done by inserting the hook from
the back side of the fabric to the front, between the “post” or “body” of the
next stitch to be worked. Then push the hook from the front to the back of the
fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”. I have found this easier to
view by shifting the fabric a bit and looking down at the top of the stitches,
as I can see the body being pushed backward.
Insert the Hook from the back of the fabricPush the hook to the back again. This image is looking down from the top of the fabric, note how the post is pushed to the back of the fabric.
Front Post Location
The front post is
often easier to work, and pushes the post toward the front of the fabric. This
is done by inserting the hook from the front to the back of the fabric between
the “post” or “body” of the next stitch to be worked. Then re-insert the back
of the fabric to the front of the fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”.
Hook location for the Front post
Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle
Materials
Medium weight yarn, in
3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2
K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook
Notes
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and then to back again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
Front post double crochets are easily seen, the back post double crochets show a stripe of color in the row below and look like it is behind the row below.
Block Pattern
With MC Ch 22
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, change
to CC1, turn. – 20 dc
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc
in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc
in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
The Beginning of the Repeat
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc
in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc
in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc
in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc
in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc
in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc
in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn.
– 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc
Just Finished the Pattern Repeat
Rows 10-16: Rep Rows 4-9 once.
Edge
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st
across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc
across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in
each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc
in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.
