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Holiday Stashdown CAL 2019

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I am really honored to be part of the 2019 Holiday Stashdown. This is the fifth year, that you have weeks worth of pattern to help you work through your stash and get some of your holiday gifts created, and have the opportunity to win prizes.

If you have missed any of the patterns so far, well head over to Underground Crafter and find the entire list of participants.

For my part, I have created a quick cowl, it is worked from the center out with a twist. This makes for only a few rounds, but they are longer than you would expect, since you are almost creating two rounds at once.

Sovereign Cowl

This pattern works up in a medium weight yarn, and in my personal feeling has a bit of a regal feel, maybe it is the picot on the edge, but I know I will be keeping this one myself and wearing it this winter.

Sovereign Cowl

Size: 31” around x 9” tall (79 x 23 cm)

Gauge

14 sts/ 3 full rounds                                                                                                    

Materials

Special Stitches

Picot: Ch 3, sl st to the stitch below the ch just created.

Pattern is worked center out, by working on both side of the beginning chain, and add a twist for the mobius.

The Pattern

Ch 103

Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, twist chain, and working in the unused loops of the beginning chain, sc in the same loops as the first sc of the round, sc in each unused loop around, join to the first st, turn. -204sc

Rnd 2: Ch 4, [sk 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join to 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.

Rnd 3: Sl st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, [sc in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] rep around, sl st to join to first sc, turn.

Rnd 4: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, [dc in next sc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join, turn.

Rnd 5-7: Rep Rnds 2-4

Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 2

Rnd 9: Sl st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, (2 dc, picot, dc) in next ch-1 sp, [sc in next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, picot, dc) in next ch-1 sp] rep around, sl st to join to first sc, fasten off. Weave in ends, block.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Shells in a Row Block

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Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Shells in a Row

These simple 5 double crochet shells are just off-set from one another, but a simple contrasting row of color gives it a different feel, allowing the for a real stand out.

Working with three colors has the added benefit of having less ends to weave in, by carrying the color along the edge. To learn more about this technique, check it out here.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 26

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk 2 chs, 5 dc in next ch, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch] 4 times, turn. -4 (5dc shells), 5 sc sts

Row 2: Change to CC1, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -25 sts

Row 3: Change to CC2, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, [sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 3 times, sk 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, turn. -3 (5 dc shells) 4 sc sts, 2 (3 dc half shells)

Row 4: Change to MC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 5: Change to CC1, ch 1, sc in same st, [sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 4 times, turn. -4 (5dc shells), 5 sc sts

Row 6: Change to CC2, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 7: Change to MC, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, [sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 3 times, sk 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, turn. -3 (5 dc shells) 4 sc sts, 2 (3 dc half shells)

Row 8: Change to CC1, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 9: Change to CC2, ch 1, sc in same st, [sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 4 times, turn. -4 (5dc shells), 5 sc sts

Row 10: Change to MC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 11: Change to CC1,  ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, [sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 3 times, sk 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, turn. -3 (5 dc shells) 4 sc sts, 2 (3 dc half shells)

Row 12: Change to CC2, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 13: Change to MC, ch 1, sc in same st, [sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 4 times, turn, do not fasten off. -4 (5dc shells), 5 sc sts

Edge

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, block.

Which Way Do I Turn?

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Does it matter which way I turn? Do I have to chain first? These are two common questions that any crochet instructor is asked when teaching the basics.

My typical answer is, “as long as you are consistent, it does not matter”, but that is not quite true.

The reason I give my answer above, is because I know that the student is taking in a lot of information and do not want to overwhelm them with small details that may discourage, and in the long run it really may not make a difference in your work.

However, there are some subtle difference to the direction you turn your fabric and effects of your fabric. I am primarily writing from the view point of right handed crocheter, but in the parentheses I note the left handed viewpoint).

Turning Your Fabric

The standard way to turn your fabric it to turn it like the page of a book (like you have been reading the last page of the book and need to turn back to the beginning). Turning this direction keeps the working yarn to the back of the fabric, in the same manner of placement as when you complete your crochet stitch.

Turning like a page of the book (right handed)

Turning the fabric in the opposite direction the working yarn is placed in the front of the fabric. While you can still create a stitch creating a yarn over feels a bit different, maybe even awkward. This placement also sets up some challenges depending on what stitch is being worked next.

Turning the page backward (right handed)

I have primarily found this with working a back loop single crochet. By having the working yarn in the front of the work, it can make it difficult to get the hook placement in the first back loop as it is not readily apparent and thus this stitch may be skipped.

To Chain or Turn

So, then to turn and chain, or chain and then turn? As long as you are only turning 180° there is no real apparent difference. In either case, if the chain is created on a fabric that has the yarn to the front of the work, the back side of the chain is facing forward. If the fabric is created with the working yarn to the back the chain will appear to have a slight twist.

The chain created when the fabric is turned like a book (right handed)…notice how the back of the chain (the bumps) are facing the edge and there is a slight twist.
The chain created when the fabric is turned in the opposite direction of a page (right handed)- notice how the back of the chain (the bumps) are facing you

So to summarize, if you find that the first stitch of a row feels a bit different than the other stitches, check the way you are turning and see if it makes a difference, but do not worry about when and how you chain, it works the same either way.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Three Cables Block

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Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Three Cables Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Three Cable Block

Crossing post stitches make great texture and stunning appearance, and they are not as difficult as you might think. Essentially you work post stitches 2 rows below your working row, to cross a cable the first posts worked will be shifted over by skipping stitches, and the last post stitches will be worked in the skipped stitches, crossing over the first post stitches created. These twists are highlighted more by having alternating post stitch rows worked by not crossing the post stitches, creating a visual gap between the rows of twists.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 4 colors MC (main color), CC1 (first cable), CC2 (large cable in middle), CC3 (last cable)

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Special Stitches

FPdc- Front Post Double Crochet: Yarn over, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of stitch, yarn over and draw up loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. (see a visual on how to work the stitch here)

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 24

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -23 sc sts

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Rep Row 2.

Crossing Cables Row

Row 4 (Crossing Cables Row): Ch 1, sc same st, sc in next 2 sts changing to color CC1 in last st (tips for changing colors here), FPdc around stitch 1 skipped from next stitch and 2 rows below, FPdc around next st of row 2 below, FPdc around the 1 skipped stitch before the first FPdc (this is crossing over the last 2 stitches made), changing to MC, sc in the next 3 stitches in Row 4 (note you do not work in the stitches behind the FPdc stitches), change to CC2 in last st, FPdc around stitch 2 skipped from next stitch and 2 rows below, FPdc around next 2 sts of row 2 below, FPdc around the first 1 skipped stitch, FPdc around second skipped stitch (these two stitches cross over the last 3 stitches made), changing to MC, sc in next 3 stitches in Row 4, change to CC3, FPdc around stitch 1 skipped from next stitch and 2 rows below, FPdc around next st of row 2 below, FPdc around the 1 skipped stitch before the first FPdc (this is crossing over the last 2 stitches made), changing to MC, sc in the last 3 stitches in Row 4, turn.

Working First Crossed Cable Front Post Stitch of small cable, Skipping 1 stitch over, and 2 rows below
Working second FPdc of small cable.
Working last FPdc of Small Cable, working in skipped stitch and crossing over FPdc created just before.
Working first FPdc of Large Cable, skip 2 stitches and work stitch 2 row s below. Note when working the forth stitch of this cable it will cross over the first three and be worked around the first skipped stitch, this is adjacent to the main color stitches.
The top row shows the appearance of all the crossed cables.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts changing to CC3 in last st, working over MC yarn sc in next 3 sts (tips for working over yarn here), change to MC, sc in next 3 sts changing to CC2 in last st, working over MC yarn, sc in next 5 sts, change to MC, sc in next 3 sts changing to CC1 in last st, working over MC, sc in next 3 sts, change to MC, sc in last 3 sts, turn.

Crochet over the main color, in odd number rows.
The Main color is not worked over in the even number rows, and instead when changing colors it bands across the back of the block.

Uncrossed Cable Row

Row 6 (Uncrossed Cable Row): Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts changing to CC1 in last st, FPdc around stitch 2 rows below, FPdc around next 2 stitches 2 rows below, change to MC, sc in next 3 sts changing to CC2 in last st, FPdc around stitch 2 rows below, FPdc around next 4 sts 2 rows below, change to MC, sc in next 3 sts changing to CC3 in last st, FPdc around stitch 2 rows below, FPdc around next 2 stitches 2 rows below, change to MC, sc in last 3 sts, turn.

Working first FPdc of uncrossed cable row, this stitch is directly below next stitch and 2 rows below.
Working second FPdc of uncrossed cable row of small cable, this stitch can be difficult to find as it is behind the crossed stitches, and may take a bit of practice to ensure that you find them
Appearance of uncrossed cable row on small cable.
All Uncrossed Cable Rows are shown across the top.

Row 7: Rep Row 5.

Row 8-23: Rep Rows 4-7 four times.

Row 24: Rep Row 4.

Row 25: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across.

Row 26: Rep Row 25. Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Hooked on Bruges Lace! & a Free Pattern

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I have been hooked on playing with Bruges Lace as of late, and wanted to share this skill.

Spiral Bruges Cowl

Bruges Lace is a crochet technique that essentially has you crocheting a ribbon, a narrow strip, and attaching it to itself to create a simple lace that looks much more involved. The patterns often have a high row count, but that is because the rows are only a few stitches each, in some cases only 5 stitches.

A “ribbon”

As you can see in this photo the “ribbon” is only a few stitches, and then there is a long turning chain. This long chain is used as a joining point when working the “ribbon” back on itself. This approach lends itself to any design that you can draw in a continuous line.

When you have a “turn” in your line you need to work longer and join multiple long loops together to form a “bend” in the ribbon.

Joining sides of “ribbons”

I encourage you to give it a try, and to get you started I have a free cowl pattern.

Spiral Bruges Cowl

Work a ribbon, and then join on one side to spiral around and create this fast and eye catching cowl. The ends of the ribbon are highlighted with simple shells to finish this highlight.

Finished Size

31″ circumference, 12″ Tall (79 cm circumference, 9 cm tall)

Gauge

5 sts (the width of ribbon, not counting ch-5 loop)= 1 1/2″ (4cm), 6 rows =4″ (10cm)

Materials

* Lisa Souza Yarns Max medium weight 50% Bombyx Silk/50% Merino Wool yarn (219 yrd/3.5oz)

* K/10 ½ /6.5mm crochet hook

Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk next ch, sc in last ch, turn chain over to work in unused loops of beg chain.

Beginning Row 2, turn and work on the other side of the chain

Row 2: Ch 5, dc in unused loops of first st, dc in next ch, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next ch, dc in unused loops of last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch 5, dc in next 2 dc sts, ch 1, dc in last 2 dc sts, turn.

Row 4-50: Rep Row 3.

Row 51: Ch 2, sl st to ch-5 loop of Row 2, sl st, dc in next 2 dc sts, ch 1, dc in last 2 dc sts, turn.

Row 52: Ch 5, dc in next 2 dc sts, ch 1, dc in last 2 dc sts, turn.

Row 53: Ch 2, sl st to next adjacent ch-5 loop, ch 2, dc in next 2 dc sts, ch 1, dc in last 2 dc sts, turn.

Row 54: Ch 5, dc in next 2 dc sts, ch 1, dc in last 2 dc sts, turn.

Row 55-248: Rep Rows 53 & 54 ninety seven times.

Row 249: Ch 2, sl st in next adjacent ch-5 loop, ch 2, sc in first dc, 5 dc in ch-1 sp, sc in last dc, fasten off. Weave in ends, block.