Tag Archives: hook

Crochet Around- How to Use a Non-Crochet Foundation

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Sometimes the classics of crochet are not really special stitches, but where you put them, or what you crochet them over.

This technique can seem daunting at first, but essentially you are using the item you are working stitches over as a foundation chain. It can be used to create padded hangers, rugs, wreaths, purse handles, just about anything you can imagine.

I typically recommend working a single crochet stitch (Double crochet if you are used to UK standard). I use this stitch as it creates more “yarn wraps” over the foundation item than using a slip stitch, while creating a stitch with minimal height.

To begin, you need to find a method of holding the item to be crocheted over, this can actually be the most challenging part of the process. You then work your crochet stitch.

Insert your hook, yarn over, 

 

pull up a loop, 

yarn over, 

pull through 2 loops to complete stitch. 

In the sample above I was working single crochet stitches over a round purse handle, I really like this simple approach to creating a professional looking handbag. This same approach created the padded hangers that rest in my closet, and the wreath holiday ornaments that I shared a while back (find it here). I have used this technique to save space with electronic devises (find that story here)…it can also be applied to creating baskets or rugs by crocheting over clothesline (it uses the same approach as the electronic devises that is still here).

 

Scrap Use Free Pattern

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I just completed the Craftvent CAL from Jimmy Beans Wool (if you missed it, but want to work up the pattern, find details here). When I was done, I had several little yarn ball left overs, so I had to find something to do with them.

Yes, I am one of those crocheters, the type that does not like to waste any yarn. This means that I have options for scrap projects. With these left over bits, from the “Sugar Plum” colors of the project already go really well together, so visually anything will look pretty good.

I started out thinking I would make a little draw string bag, but as I got into the project I realized that I had enough yarn to actually make a hat, and a hat is going to get a bit more wear in my household.

I have shared this scrap pattern below, and the notation of how you can turn this into a drawstring bag.

Please note that I do not have any length of the yarn used noted, as really it is just scraps. You could put any colors together anyway you want.

I used an H/8/5.00mm hook and light weight yarns (for a listing of the yarns in the projects, they are the same as the yarns in the Craftvent Quest Shawl, listed here). To help you hat fit perfectly, I share information here.

Scrap Hat

Rnd 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, sl st to join to beg ch.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of the next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of the next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 6: Change color, ch 1, 2 sc in back loops of same st, sc in back loops of next 4 sts, [2 sc in back loops of next st, sc in back loops of next 4 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: Change color, ch 1, 2 sc in back loops of same st, sc in back loops of next 5 sts, [2 sc in back loops of next st, sc in back loops of next 5 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 8: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of same st, dc in back loop of next 6 sts, [2 dc in back loop of next dc, dc in back loop of next 6 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 9: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 10: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 11: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 12: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 13: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 15: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 16: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 17: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 18: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 19: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 20: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 21: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 22: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 23: Change color, ch 1 sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Simple Bag

Work as for Hat in Rnds 1-19.

Rnd 20: Change color, ch 4, sk next dc, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1, [dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1] around, sl st to join.

Rnd 21: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st and ch-sp around, sl st to join.

Rnd 22: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 23: Change color, ch 1 sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Drawstring

Create a chain about 50” long, turn and sl st in each ch across, fasten off.

Weave drawstring through the ch-sps of Rnd 20, then weave ends around to opposite side, ensuring that the tie is wrapped around the bag twice. Tie ends of drawstring together, and pull pull closed.

 

 

Adding Some Height with Extended Stitches

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When I am teaching I find that if my students make a mistake, it is because they are attempting something more advanced than they had learned. One such “more advanced stitch” is working Extended Stitches.

Extended stitches are a great way to make more gentle curves, or even help make gauge, and they are pretty easy to create. The technique of extending can be used with any crochet stitch, and only adds one additional step.

To create the stitch you start whichever stitch you are work, just as you always do. Meaning if you are creating a single crochet, insert you hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through; if you are creating double crochet, yarn over then insert in you hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through. The extension happens right after the “yarn over and pull through”, this is the point in a stitch that I refer to as “anchoring” as it secures the stitch being created to fabric being created.

After “anchoring the stitch” you yarn over and pull through a loop, essentially creating a chain. Then you complete the stitch as usual. This little added chain gives a little extra height to the stitch, however it does not make it as tall as the next typical stitch in crochet. This helps create a gentler curve in a gradual stitch taper.

There is only a slight difference in the appearance of these extended stitches, and that is a little extra “v” at the base of the stitch post.

Steps for working typical crochet stitches, note: all photo examples are worked to the left of the typical version of the stitch for comparison:

Extended Single Crochet (esc):

Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull through a loop to anchor, chain one, yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

Extended Half Double Crochet (ehdc):

Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull through a loop to anchor, chain one, yarn over and pull through 3 loops.

Extended Double Crochet (edc):

Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through a loop to anchor, chain one, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over pull through 2 loops.

Ann’s Angles Square

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I am so honored to be invited to participate in this years Moogly CAL 2018 Afghan Block! This is the last square for 2018, find all the rest here, and complete your own throw using one of each square.

This year I have been playing with miter squares, and thought I would share the skill with you. A miter square is worked from two outside edges, with a decrease at the corner, until no stitches are left on either edge, creating a square.

However with this design, I then added to two edges to create an effect that is similar to a look of a square atop a square, or some say even an arrow.

The name is derived from one of my students, Ann. She is my world traveler that shares stories of all of the exotic lands she has visited. She is also a former high school mathematics instructor, and always keeps us on point with the the patterns and the various ways that the stitch counts can be effected.

Ann’s Angles Square

Materials:

*Red Heart With Love: #1562 Jadeite (A), #1101 Eggshell (B), #1207 Cornsilk (C), #1971 Tigerlily (D)

*Hook J/10/ 6.00mm

Gauge

Square= 12″ x 12″ (30.5 x 30.5 cm)

Row 1: With A, ch 42, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 18 sts, sc3tog over the next 3 chs, sc in the last 19 chs, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 17 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 18 sts, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 16 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 17 sts, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 15 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 16 sts, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 14 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 15 sts, change to color B, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 13 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 14 sts, turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 12 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 13 sts, turn.

Row 8: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 11 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 12 sts, turn.

Row 9: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 10 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 11 sts, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 9 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 10 sts, change to color C, turn.

Row 11: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 8 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 9 sts, turn.

Row 12: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 7 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 8 sts, turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 6 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 7 sts, turn.

Row 14: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 5 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 6 sts, turn.

Row 15: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 4 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 5 sts, change to color D, turn.

Row 16: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 4 sts, turn.

Row 17: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 2 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 3 sts, turn.

Row 18: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 1 st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last 2 sts, turn.

Row 19: Ch 1, flsc in same st, sc3tog over next 3 sts, flsc in last st, turn.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc3tog over next 3 sts, fasten off.

Working over the ends of rows.

Row 21: With color D, join to either of edge of Row 1, ch 1, evenly work 19 sc sts across edge, 3 sc in last stitch of row 20, working down the other edge or rows, evenly work 19 sc sts across edge, turn.

Row 22: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 19 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 20 sts, turn.

Row 23: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 20 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 21 sts, turn.

Row 24: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 21 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 22 sts, change to color C, turn.

Row 25: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 22 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 23 sts, turn.

Row 26: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 23 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 24 sts, turn.

Row 27: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 24 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 25 sts, turn.

Row 28: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 25 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 26 sts, change to color B, turn.

Row 29: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 26 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 27 sts, turn.

Row 30: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 27 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 28 sts, turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 28 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 29 sts, turn.

Row 32: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 29 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 30 sts, change to color A, turn.

Row 33: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 30 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 31 sts, turn.

Row 34: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 31 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 32 sts, turn.

Row 35: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 32 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 33 sts, turn.

Row 36: Ch 1, flsc in same st, flsc in next 33 sts, 3 sc in next st, flsc in next 33 sts, 3 sc in next st, working on edge of Rows 21-36 evenly sc across to the unused loops of the beg ch of row 1, sc in the next 20 unused loops, 3 sc in next st, sc in the next 20 unused loops, continue evenly sc across the ends of Rows 21-36, 2 sc in last st, sl st to join. Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, Swatches Lie…Well Maybe….

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Yes, swatches lie. Well that is a bit harsh…really they can be a bit misleading.

To start with there is the famous question, “Do I need to make a swatch?” Well only if you want to ensure that you meet the gauge of the pattern. Gauge helps to ensure that the pattern comes out the same size, but it also ensures that your fabric has the same drape as that of the original design. If this is important to you, then yes, you need to swatch.

That being said there are some road blocks that stop many people from making a swatch.

First there is no actual directions for making a swatch, the gauge lists the number of stitches and rows that fit the given measurements, but that is where the information ends. If you are a new crocheter this can be a bit difficult to decipher, as you need to read and understand your pattern and then make assumptions from this.

One of the ways to make these assumptions is simply to make a chain longer than the given measurement for the gauge. By a rule of thumb add make the swatch at least 40% bigger than is measured, so if it states 4” (10cm), make a swatch of 5 ½” (14 cm). This is so you can take the measurement from of the stitches and rows without using the edges of the swatch, as the edges can distort the measurement.

If the gauge gives a stitch pattern, work this in rows until the rows measure larger than the given measurement. However this is only step one.

The next step to ensure you are getting an accurate measurement is to block your swatch. Essentially you want to treat your wash as you would the finished item, so if it is hand washed then hand wash, if it is machine wash then machine wash, and let dry.

Now you can take the measurement and to ensure that you meet gauge, to proceed with your pattern. If you need to adjust your hook size to obtain gauge you will need to repeat the process in a new hook size and repeat.

However here is the honesty, very few of us go through these steps. I know when I get my yarn I want to dive right in and get to creating, but sometimes I do have to pay the price for this. I may need to rip back and rework if things are not coming out as expected.

So how can I find a happy medium between creating a swatch and just enjoying my crochet? My tip is to check my work regularly. I may block an item before I head to bed, after a day of stitching, and check my gauge in the morning. If it is on course I feel free to continue onward, if it is a bit off it is a day to rip back and begin anew. This may be a bit of a gamble in losing a day’s worth of work, but it keeps me enjoying my stitching while still being happy with the outcome.