1 For Me, 1 For You- Quick Weave Block

Posted on March 16, 2020 by webmaster

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

The Basket Weave Stitch

Utilizing stitch placement is all that makes this pattern appear. It is essentially only a double crochet stitch, however it is worked around the body or post of the stitch a row below. There are two different stitches, the back post and the front post.

Post stitches can be worked with any stitch type, and I describe below how to work the location. Check out more information about stitch locations here.

Back Post Locations

The back post pushes the post away from the fabric facing. This is done by inserting the hook from the back side of the fabric to the front, between the “post” or “body” of the next stitch to be worked. Then push the hook from the front to the back of the fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”. I have found this easier to view by shifting the fabric a bit and looking down at the top of the stitches, as I can see the body being pushed backward.

Insert the Hook from the back of the fabric

Push the hook to the back again. This image is looking down from the top of the fabric, note how the post is pushed to the back of the fabric.

Front Post Location

The front post is often easier to work, and pushes the post toward the front of the fabric. This is done by inserting the hook from the front to the back of the fabric between the “post” or “body” of the next stitch to be worked. Then re-insert the back of the fabric to the front of the fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Notes

Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and then to back again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

Since this Block uses three colors, instead of cutting the yarn, carry it along the side of the Block. If you need tips on this check it out here.

Front post double crochets are easily seen, the back post double crochets show a stripe of color in the row below and look like it is behind the row below.

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 22

Row 1: Dc in 4^th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, change to CC1, turn. – 20 dc

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

The Beginning of the Repeat

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc, 9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Just Finished the Pattern Repeat

Rows 10-16: Rep Rows 4-9 once.

Edge

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, block. (see tips here)

Tunisian in the Round- Free Pattern

Posted on March 8, 2020 by webmaster

To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Tunisian Crochet in the Round.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

What Makes this Special

Tunisian crochet is an interesting technique that produces a fabric that can look woven, or even knitted. It is worked with in a two-step process. The first step is to load up the hook with loops (Forward Pass), like casting on in knitting, the second step is working all the loops off until only one remains (Return Pass).

Here is One Option

This back and for of the two-steps, actually can make it a bit challenging to work the fabric in the round, so often it is worked flat and then seamed. However, there are a couple of different approaches to working in the round. One is to work with a double ended crochet hook, so you can load from one end and work off the loops with the other. This process works the piece in a spiral and two strands of yarn, it looks nice, but finding double ended hooks is not exactly an easy task.

The Option I like

The method I employ more is one that I discovered from Jennifer Hanson, the Stitch Diva. It is a Tunisian Loop Return Pass. It involves using a cabled Tunisian hook, and adding joining loops to the fabric while working the Return Pass. I have tweaked it a bit from what Jennifer has in her video, as it works for me. So let me share my tweaked version.

How to Make it Work

After you have completed the Forward Pass of a Round, fold the cable of the hook so that the end is next to the hook, the next step for a return pass is to now yarn over and pull through a loop, you will still do this step but you wrap the yarn around the cable as you are yarning over. Basically I have the cable laying adjacent to the hook so that when I yarn over, the yarn is coming over the cable as well, and then I pull through 1 loop.

Yarn over and pull through 1 loop on hook.

Keeping the cable laying adjacent to the hook still, I now yarn over and pull through 2 loops. At this point I have just added 2 loops to the end of the cable.

Yarn over the cable and hook again, then pull through 2 loops on the hook.

After working the 2 added joining loops to the cable, now work the standard process for a Return Pass of Yo, pull through 2 loops, across until 2 loops from the forward pass, and the 2 added joining loops remain.

Finishing the Join

I now continue the Return Pass, by yarning over and pulling through 2 loops without working over the cable until 2 loop from the Forward Pass and the 2 added loops remain, (this will be 4 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through the last 4 loops.

2 loops of the Return Pass, and the 2 added joining loops

Push the added joining loops up the cable and onto the hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops.

Work all subsequent round this way, and the fabric with be joined.

Yarn over cable and hook before beginning the Return Pass of every round.

In some of the Tunisian stitches there may be some gapping at the join. I have found this with the Tunisian Full Stitch for example, but overall it is satisfactory to me. In addition as the fabric is joined in the Return Pass, during the very first Round the beginning chain is not joined, so when I weave in the ends, I use this opportunity to close this gap.

The look of the seam after a few rounds.

Tunisian Cup Cozy Pattern

Materials

Any medium weight yarn

M/N (9 mm) Tunisian cabled crochet hook

Special Stitches

Tunisian Loop Return Pass (TLRP)– *Bring end of cable to working end of hook, bring working yarn to bottom of hook and in front of cable, loop working yarn under cable to top of hook,** YO, pull through a loop; Rep from * to ** once, YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops added at end of row); (Yo, pull through 2 loops) until 4 loops remain on hook, YO, pull through 4 loops.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss)—Working from right to left, hold working yarn behind work, insert hook under next vertical bar, yarn over and draw up a loop.

Getting Started

Rnd 1: Ch 23, load hook by inserting hook in next ch, YO, pull up a loop across. TLRP. -23 sts

Rnd 2 & 3: Tss in each stitch. TLRP.

Rnd 4: Sc in each st across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Energizing Rainbow Baby Blanket- Free Pattern

Posted on February 24, 2020 by webmaster

Every baby deserves something special, and I was asked to create something that unique, and it is a free pattern to you. The Energizing Rainbow is my creation inspired by a local Apple Orchard, Rainbow Orchards.

Energizing Rainbow Baby Blanket

It is created using the Catherine Wheel technique of one row of shells, followed by another row of large decreases. In this approach, I offset the colors in some of the rows to create waves instead of circles. I then alter it back to circles periodically to create a shift in the direction of the wave.

If you want to explore more about the Catherine Wheel, I explain more here, while I explain working decreases here. I also framed the waves with a row of single crochet, so that there is a break in the color blocking.

If you find that you want to explore more with this stitch technique, check out my two additional free patterns, Rolling Along (to benefit Warm Up America), and Moorish Tiles (as part of the Moogly 2020 CAL)

This blanket measures about 36″x 48″.

Materials

Hook: J/10/6.00mm
Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium medium weigh 100% premium acrylic yarn (219yd/200m/3.5oz/100g) 1 skein each: (X) #113 Garnet, (X1) #133 Cayenne, (X2) #158 Saffron, (X3) #172 Ivy, (X4) #110 Saltwater, (X5) #147 Blackberry, (X6) #100 Snow

Special Stiches

Double Crochet 4 Together (dc4tog): [Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops] 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook

Double Crochet 9 Together (dc9tog): [Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops] 9 times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook

Beginning to Make Waves

Row 1: With X ch 114, sc in 2^nd ch from hook, [sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch] across, change to X1, turn. – (14) 9 dc groups, 15sc

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc4tog, [ch 3, sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog] 13 times, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in next sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in next sc, sc in turning ch, change to X3, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Rows 6 & 7: Rep Rows 3 & 4, changing to X5 at the end of Row 7.

Making a Full Circle

Row 8: Rep Row 3.

Row 9: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in next sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in next sc, 5 dc in top of turning ch, change to X, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1.

Back to Waves

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 12: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc in last sc, change to X2, turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Rows 14 & 15: Rep Rows 11 & 12, changing to X4 at the end of Row 15.

Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Rows 17 & 18: Rep Rows 11 & 12, changing to X at the end of Row 18.

Another Circle

Row 19: Rep Row 11.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in center of dc9tog, sc in next sc] 14 times, change to X1, turn.

Row 21: Ch 1, scv in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Back to Waves

Row 22: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, [sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3] 13 times, sc in next st, dc5tog, turn.

Row 23: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in next sc, sc in top of turning ch, change to X3, turn.

Row 24: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Rows 25 & 26: Rep Rows 22 & 23, changing to X5 at end of Row 26, turn.

Row 27: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X, turn.

Rows 28 & 29: Rep Rows 22 & 23 changing to X1 at end of 29, turn.

Going Around Again

Row 30: Rep Row 22.

Row 31: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in next sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in next sc, 5 dc in top of turning ch, change to X2, turn.

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Energizing Rainbow

Making it Wavy

Row 33: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 34: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc in last sc, change to X4, turn.

Row 35: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Rows 36 & 37: Rep Rows 33 & 34 changing to X at the end of Row 37, turn.

Row 38: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1, turn.

Rows 39 & 40: Rep Rows 33 & 34 changing to X2 at the end of Row 40, turn.

Circles, Circles, Circles

Row 41: Rep Row 33.

Row 42: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in center of dc9tog, sc in next sc] 14 times, change to X3, turn.

Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Love Some More Waves

Row 44: Ch 4, dc4tog, ch 3, [sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3] 13 times, sc in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn.

Row 45: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in sc, sc in turning ch, change to X5, turn.

Row 46: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X, turn.

Rows 47 & 48: Rep Rows 44 & 45, changing to X1 at the end of Row 48.

Row 49: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Rows 50 & 51: Rep Rows 44 & 45, changing to X3 at the end of Row 51.

Around Again

Row 52: Rep Row 44.

Row 53: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in sc, 5 dc in turning ch, change to X4, turn.

Row 54: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Lets make it Ripple

Row 55: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 56: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc in last st, change to X, turn.

Row 57: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1, turn.

Rows 58 & 59: Rep Rows 55 & 56 changing to X2 at the end of Row 59, turn.

Row 60: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Rows 61 & 62: Rep Rows 55 & 56 changing to X4 at the end of Row 62, turn.

Another Going Around

Row 63: Rep Row 55.

Row 64: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in center of dc9tog, sc in next sc] 14 times, change to X5, turn.

Row 65: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X, turn.

And Back to Up and Down

Row 66: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, [sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3] 13 times, sc in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn.

Row 67: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in sc, sc in last st, changing to X1, turn.

Row 68: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Rows 69 & 70: Rep Rows 66 & 67 changing to X3 at the end of Row 70.

Row 71: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Rows 72 & 73: Rep Rows 66 & 67 changing to X5 at the end of Row 73.

Getting Dizzy Yet…More circles

Row 74: Rep Row 66.

Row 75: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in sc, 5 dc in turning ch, change to X, turn.

Row 76: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1, turn.

Up & Dow, Up & Down

Row 77: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 78: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc ] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc last sc, change to X2, turn.

Row 79: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Rows 80 & 81: Rep Rows 77 & 78 changing to X4 at the end of Row 81.

Row 82: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Rows 83 & 84: Rep Rows 77 & 78, change to X at the end of Row 84.

Even Out to Finish

Row 85: Rep Row 77, fasten off.

Edging

Rnd 1: With X6, join to any corner, ch 1, 3 sc in in same corner, sc evenly on side of afghan working 3 sc in each corner, sl st to join to first sc, turn.

Rnds 2-5: Ch 1, sc in same st, work sc in each stitch across to corner (the center sc of 3sc), working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: With X5, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: With X4, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: With X3, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: With X2, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: With X1, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: With X, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join. Fasten off.

Moorish Tiles Square- Moogly CAL 2020

Posted on January 23, 2020 by webmaster

I love starting off the year with the Moogly CAL! It is a great year long project that makes new squares every two weeks. By the end of the year, you have an afghan. It is always a fun project with many inspirational squares.

I am fortunate enough to share my square with you. To check out all the others make sure and follow along here.

This square uses a stitch often called a Catherine Wheel. Essentially it is a row of decrease, and a row of large shell worked in the center of the decrease. This makes a circle in the fabric. Learn more about this technique with my free charity square, 1 for Me, 1 For You- Rolling Along.

I have been playing with this stitch a bit lately. Taking a liking to working a contrasting color row between the “circles”, I have also found that by working slip stitches where this classic stitch works single crochets, creates a bit of a tighter fabric. This is beneficial, as sometimes this stitch technique can become a bit open and “gappy” at the edges of the circles.

The name really came from how the design struck me. It has reminded me of the mosaics I have seen in art books, and inspires me to want to travel.

Materials

*Red Heart With Love, #1542 Aubergine (A), #1207 Cornsilk (B), #1562 Jadeite (C), #1001 White (D), #1623, Mallard (E)

*Hook J/10/ 6.00mm

Gauge

12”x 12” square (30.5 x 30.5cm)

Special Stitches

Double Crochet 6 Together (dc6tog): Working over the next 6 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 7 loops on hook.

Double Crochet 7 Together (dc7tog): Working over the next 7 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] seven times, yo, pull through all 8 loops on hook.

Double Crochet 9 Together (dc9tog): Working over the next 9 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] nine times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

Notes/Tips

Single crochet stitches are worked over slip stitches, this may be up to 3 rows, creating a break in color.

When working the last round, work the single crochet stitches into the chain stitches and not the space (with the exception of the corners), so as not to create open gaps.

Learn how to work a Standing Single Crochet here.

The Pattern

Rnd1: With A, ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, (ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, [2 dc, sl st, 2 dc, ch 2] three times, 2 dc, sl st, dc, sl st to 3^rd ch of beg ch) in the ring. Fasten off. -16 dc, 4 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

First Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 2: With B, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp see notes to work a Standing Single Crochet, ch 2, sc in same sp, [sc in next 2 dc, sc over sl st in ring, sc in next 2 dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] three times, sc in next 2 dc, sc over sl st in ring, sc in next 2 dc, join. Fasten off. -28 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 3: With C, join with a sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same sp, [ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, join in ch-2 sp. -4 dc7tog, 8 sl sts, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 4: ch 2, sl st in same sp, [9 dc in center dc7tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in center dc7tog, join. Fasten off. -36 dc, 8 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

Second Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 5: With D, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, [sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below] three times, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. – 52 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 6: With E, join to any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, [ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp] three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3^rd ch. – 8 dc6tog, 4 sl st, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Rnd 7: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same sp, [9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in dcs6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, join. Fasten off. -72 dc, 12 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

Third Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 8: With B, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, [sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] three times, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. -92 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 9: With A, join in any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, [ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp ] three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3^rd ch. – 4 dc9tog, 8 dc6tog, 8 sl sts, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Rnd10: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same st, [9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, join. Fasten off. – 108 dc, 16 sl sts, 4 ch-2 sps

Fourth Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 11: With D, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, {sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, [sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below] twice, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} three times, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below [ sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below] twice, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. -132 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Row 12: With C, join to any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, {ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp) three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3rd ch. -8 dc9tog, 8 dc6tog, 12 sl sts, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Last Round, Work in Chains, and Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Row 13: See notes. Ch 1, sc in same st, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch across to next ch-2 sp] three times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch across to last st, join. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block. -140 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Make It For Me- Italian Spy Handbag

Posted on January 18, 2020 by webmaster

I am so excited to be participating in the Make it for Me with ELK Studio (for all the designs check it out here!). This year I have been inspired to create the Italian Spy Handbag as a Free pattern.

This handbag was inspired by a conversation with a friend that happens to be a fashion designer. She was discussing a crochet fabric with me, and I was discussing shapes with her. The further we went along in the discussion, I had a vision of the perfect small handbag I needed for day trips to the city.

For me, a day in the city is San Francisco. I always want to travel with only the essentials, as there is a lot of walking….much more then I typically do in an average day.

So, I want a handbag that can carry the essentials, not weigh a lot, and one that I can comfortably keep close. The Italian Spy fits that build.

It is a simple pattern that uses less then one skein, and utilizes a simple tight stitch. But, just because it is worked in single crochet do not under estimate the overall effect of the fabric, or how it can easily show your mistakes. The pattern is worked in one piece, and then folded and seamed. There is an option to stiffen the sides and bottom, and options for the finishing edge.

I hope you give it a try for you prefect day out handbag. Enjoy.

Italian Spy Handbag

Finished Size

10”x7”x2”

Materials

Hook: F/5/3.75mm

Manos del Uruguay Milo light weight 65% Merino wool, 35% linen yarn, (380yrd/350 m/3.5 oz/100 g) 1 skein, colorway #2607 Boreal

1” Button
24” handle

Gauge

Gauge 22 sts/ 25 rows=4”

Front

Ch 50

Row 1: sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -49sc

Row 2-42: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, ch 42, fasten off.

Sides Worked with Body

Row 44: Join with slip stitch to Row 43 at first st of row (opposite end of end just fastened off), ch 43, turn, sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, sc in each sc across, and sc in each ch, turn. -133sc

Row 45-55: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 55.

Back

Row 56: Skipping 42 sts, join to next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 48 sts, turn. -49sc

Row 57-100: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Flap

Row 101: DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc until 2 sts rem, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. -47sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 102-120: Rep Row 101. -7sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 121: Buttonhole Row, DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. –(1) ch-3 sp, 2sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 122-123: Rep row 101. Fasten off at the end of Row 123. -1sc, (2) sc2tog

Optional Insert (to create more stiffness)

Ch 132

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -131sc

Row 2-10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 10.

Optional Assembly of Insert

Lay Insert section over the Sides Worked with Body Portion, Seam the insert to the Sides over Body in any preferred method, such as whip stitch with a needle or slip stitch with a crochet hook. For even more stiffening, you can place a strip of plastic or cardboard that measure 1” x 25”, and place it between the Insert and Side worked with Body

Assembly

Fold Front and Back toward each other, and Fold Sides toward Front and Back, seam side of Side to Front, and seam side of Side to Back, on each side of the handbag.

Working over seamed edges, and all unfinished edges, work Reverse Single Crochet or Corded Edge Stitch around to finish.

Sew button on Front to align with Button Hole of Flap.

Sew Handles to Sides.

If Flap is curling, use an iron to seam if flat.