Tag Archives: hook

A Vacation from Crochet

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I thought it would feel different, not crocheting for 2 weeks, but surprisingly it was a bit liberating.

I did not start out planning to put my hook and yarn aside through the entire holiday season, but that is what happened. My family and I took a holiday vacation, a true first for us. We were gone for 2 weeks taking a whirlwind guided tour of Europe, from London to Rome. It really has been a lifelong dream to actually have a passport stamps of travel, and the end of 2017 the stars aligned and the dream became reality. We visited Stonehenge, and the Eiffel Tower. We took in a show at the Moulin Rouge, and checked out the views from Mount Pilatus. We enjoyed dinner on the Grand Canal, and visited Michelangelo’s David. We were awestruck with the Sistine Chapel and the Colosseum. It was a lifetime of dreams wrapped into an adventure, an adventure we would love to do again.

I packed a couple of crochet projects and added them to my backpack. There is down time in travel, like the direct flights of over 10 hours, and the coach rides across the French country side, or the moments before sleep in the hotel. However, I was captivated by the dream, engaged in conversations with my new traveling companions, and spending quality time with my family.

When I got home again, and dug those projects out of my backpack, they felt fresh and new. It was like my whole body, all of my ideas and inspirations were able to be rejuvenated and see my stitches with fresh eyes. I cannot remember when I last felt that way about my hand craft, it has to have been at least several years, and I do not know that just putting it down at home without the adventure would have yielded the same result. My hooks feel lighter, my ideas crisper, I hope this side effect has some staying power, but if it doesn’t at least I have an idea of how to recapture it again.

Beyond Basic Hat- Free Pattern

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Last week I shared a Basic Hat free pattern, I had an increased number of people wanting to make hats, and they really are great, quick projects, that can help those fighting cancer by the means of chemo therapy. I have designed both of these hats using baby weight yarn, as I find that it is both soft and hypo-allergenic.

The Beyond Basic Hat is worked holding 2 strands of baby yarn at one time (you could substitute 1 strand of medium weight yarn instead). To use 2 strands is not as difficult as it seems, you simply hold them together and treat them as if they were just 1 strand, so you yarn over using both strands together, you pull through loops using both strands together, they just get worked as one. I find it fun to use 2 different colors, like I did in this sample with teal and lemon yellow.

I find that this pattern tends to be my go to hat more often, as is really works up fairly fast, however if you want to learn how to customize the size of hat, check out my tutorial, Crochet Hat Formula, here.

 

Beyond Basic Hat

Materials:

2 skeins Lion Brand Soft Baby light weight yarn (60% acrylic, 40% nylon)

I/9/6mm crochet hook

Gauge: 5 rnds/ 8 dc=3”

This pattern is worked holding 2 strands of yarn throughout.

For directions for the Reverse Single Crochet (Revsc) check out my tutorial here.

Sizes: Baby (Kid, Woman, Man)

Rnd 1(1, 1, 1) Ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from the hook, sl st to join.

Rnd 2 (2, 2, 2): Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 3 (3, 3, 3): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd – (4, 4, 4): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd – ( -, 5, 5): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd – (-, -, 6): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 4-8 (5-11, 6-12, 7-13): Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 9 (12, 13, 14): Ch 1, Revsc around, sl st to join. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Deborah’s Diamond Square

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Thank you for joining me for my Moogly CAL Square! As a time of year of giving thanks, I am very thankful to be invited to participate in the project, and I hope you enjoy my contribution as the last square for the year.

If you are unfamiliar with The Moogly Yearly Afghan CAL, you can learn more about this project, learning a new 12″ square every 2 weeks, here at Mooglyblog.com.

I tend to like a little different angle in my squares, hence to rotation to create a diamond in the center. This square changes colors every round, but you can create it in many different color configurations. As for the name of this square, Deborah is a long time student, and supporter of my crochet career. She makes a point of sharing her love of baking with all the other students at the weekly crochet classes I teach at my local yarn store, and is always encouraging to everyone. So the name is another sign of thanks.

Deborah’s Diamond Square   by: Linda Dean

Small Shells create a center diamond that is framed in color, having a modern feel with classic charm.

Finished Size: 12”x 12”

Materials List:

  • J/10/6.00mm size crochet hook
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice medium weight 100% Acrylic yarn (3.5oz/100g/170yds): 1 skein each color: (A) #123 Beige, (B) #134 Terracotta, (C) #133 Brick, (D) #172 Kelly Green
  • Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

sk: skip

sp(s): space(s)

st(s): stitch(es)

YO: yarn over

Rnd 1: With color A, ch 4, sl st to first ch forming a ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 dc in ring, hdc in ring, [hdc, 2 dc, hdc] in ring three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 8 dc

Rnd 2: With color B join to last st of Round 1, ch 3 (counts as dc) 5 dc in same st as join, sk 1 st, sc in next dc, sk 1 st, [6 dc in next hdc, sk 1 st, sc in next dc] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 4 sc, 24 dc

Rnd 3: With color C, join to any sc, ch 3 (counts as dc), 10 dc in the same st, sk 2 dc, sc in next 2 dc sts, sk next 2 dc, [11 dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 sc, 44 dc

Rnd 4: With color D, join to last st of Round 3, ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in same st as ch, 6 dc in next sc, sk 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st, [6 dc in next 2 sc, sk 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] three times, sl st to second to the last st join, fasten off. -8sc, 48 dc

Rnd 5: With color A join in any ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 6 sts, [hdc in next st, ch 1, hdc in next st, sc in next 13 sts] three times, hdc in next st, ch 1, hdc in next st, sc in remaining 6 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. – 52 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 6: With color B, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –60 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 7: With color C, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –68 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 8: With color D, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –76 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 9: With color A, join to any ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same sp, sk hdc, [sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st] five times, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 sp, sk hdc, [sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st] five times; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 28 sc, 60 dc

Rnd 10: With color B, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sk sc and 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across to ch-1 sp, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sk sc and 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, [ sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across to ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 28 sc, 60 dc

Rnd 11: With color C, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same sp, hdc in next hdc, [3 dc in next sc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] across, hdc in hdc *(dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next hdc, [3 dc in next sc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] across, hdc in hdc; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 20 sc, 68 dc

Rnd 12: With color D, join to any ch-1 sp,  ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1) dc in same sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next hdc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across, hdc in next hdc, hdc in next dc, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next hdc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across, hdc in next hdc, hdc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 16 hdc, 20 sc, 68 dc

Rnd 13: With Color A, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sc in each st across; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 hdc, 104 sc

Rnd 14: With Color B, join ot any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1) sc in each st across, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sc in each st across; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 112 sc

Weave in ends, block if desired.

Corded Edges-A Great Finish

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Often times it is the small details that can really cause your crochet work to shine. One of those details can be found in the edging.

There are many times that I finish off a piece of fabric with a Reverse Single Crochet stitch, also known by the name “Crab Stitch”, but in my time teaching I have found that this stitch can be a bit to trying for some students. It requires a good sense of adjusting your yarns tension and working in the opposite direction (I discuss how to work the stitch here). However there is another stitch, The Corded Edge stitch.

The Corded Edge stitch looks very similar to the Reverse Single Crochet, but is easier to work. It is not quite a stitch as much as a technique that creates a braided or cabled look. It is worked in the last row of the fabric and is worked by rotating the two loops on the hook 360 degrees, and then finish the stitch.

Unlike a Reverse Single crochet, this technique can be used with any stitch. Below I have demonstrated this technique with a Corded Single Crochet and a Corded Double Crochet stitch.

To work a Corded Single crochet, you begin a single crochet just as you always do: Insert hook in indicated stitch, Yarn over and pull through a loop. Now with 2 loops on your hook, you rotate your hook 360 degrees. It is not crucial as to which direction you make this turn as long as you are consistent with each stitch. There is a slight difference in the appearance depending which way you rotate, so sample each and see which you prefer. I typically rotate in the direction it feels most comfortable for my hand to work.

Now you yarn over and pull through the 2 twisted loops on your hook. This completes the stitch, and you repeat it in the next stitch.

To work this technique as a Corded Double Crochet, you begin the Double crochet as normal: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, Yarn over, pull through a loop, Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Now with the last 2 loops on the hook you rotate your hook 360 degrees, yarn over and pull through the 2 twisted loops.

It is pretty simple, yet results in an edge that is very finished.

Brittany Hooks-My New Go-To

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I learned something new and realized I was wrong. Yes, I can admit when I am wrong…even if I have friends and family that may not believe that statement…For years I have believed that for me there has been a difference between in-line and taper hooks. Some people refer to this as the debate between Susan Bates and Boye hooks, as they are the most popular brands.

left to right: Boye, Susan Bates, Brittany; all size K, 10 1/2, 6.5mm

To simplify the arguments, the inline hooks are like simple tubes with slits at the throat of the hook, while tapers taper down at the throat and enlarge at the head. I thought that it was this that made the difference in how I crocheted, but testing out some Brittany Crochet hooks, as showed me I have been wrong all these years.

Brittany hooks are inline hooks, and I offered to test them out primarily because I realized that the world is small. In small I mean, that I met the owner of Brittany hooks at a trade show in the Midwest, only to realize in our discussions that we actually went to high school together, a couple of years apart, in my home town in Northern California; that he actually hung out with my cousin throughout school and that we had many mutual friends.

I offered to test out the hooks, as a feeling of this small world companionship, I didn’t realize that I would learn something new and find a great hook in the process. Brittany was happy to have my feedback on my experience with their product, as they want to ensure that they are offering the best hooks on the market.

What I learned was that for me it really is not the shaft of the throat that effects my crochet, it is the length of the hook.

I use a knife hold when holding my hook, meaning that I hold it the same as if I were holding a knife to chop. I hadn’t really realized it before but the Susan Bates hooks are shorter than the Boye hooks as a result they do not extend past my hand, but instead rest just at the edge of my little finger. When using the Brittany, they had more length than a Bates, and that made all the difference. I found no difficulty in creating the stitches, and I have put these hooks through some test, creating a couple of sweaters and shawls.

The Brittany hooks were very comfortable to use, not to mention very handsome. They are actually all created by wood sourced in the United States, ensuring that they wood is sustainably harvested. All the hooks are made by a single family, and in a small town along the northern coast of California. My understanding is that this company grew out of a bit of a challenge; that challenge being creating a knitting needle from a single piece of wood.  This should not really seem like a challenge, as we have all seen wooden knitting needles before, however these are typically constructed in two pieces; a turned shaft and a stopper at the top. Brittany is actually all turned as one piece. The turning of the shaft is then adjusted to turn a beautiful ending edge. For the crochet hooks there is one other step, which is cutting in the throat.

While a machine might turn the lathe, the human hand is evident throughout the hook. Each one is lovingly created and hand finished. The family is dedicated to making a quality product while working by their family values of supporting the environment and their community. It began with a father over 40 years ago and is continued with the son working to support his growing family today.

However that thing I find most amazing is how reasonably priced the hooks are. I have found them on-line and in some small local yarn stores for under $10. For a hand worked hook….that is crazy reasonable. Couple with that, that they have an amazing product guarantee…if your hook is damaged in 5 years of purchase, they will replace it, no questions asked. That is beyond reasonable.

This makes it a very practical gift to yourself or someone you care for that stitches. I definitely recommend Brittany hooks, and am glad that I decided to give this hook a chance….I learned something new about my stitching as well as found my new go-to hook.