Deborah’s Diamond Square

Thank you for joining me for my Moogly CAL Square! As a time of year of giving thanks, I am very thankful to be invited to participate in the project, and I hope you enjoy my contribution as the last square for the year.

If you are unfamiliar with The Moogly Yearly Afghan CAL, you can learn more about this project, learning a new 12″ square every 2 weeks, here at Mooglyblog.com.

I tend to like a little different angle in my squares, hence to rotation to create a diamond in the center. This square changes colors every round, but you can create it in many different color configurations. As for the name of this square, Deborah is a long time student, and supporter of my crochet career. She makes a point of sharing her love of baking with all the other students at the weekly crochet classes I teach at my local yarn store, and is always encouraging to everyone. So the name is another sign of thanks.

Deborah’s Diamond Square   by: Linda Dean

Small Shells create a center diamond that is framed in color, having a modern feel with classic charm.

Finished Size: 12”x 12”

Materials List:

  • J/10/6.00mm size crochet hook
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice medium weight 100% Acrylic yarn (3.5oz/100g/170yds): 1 skein each color: (A) #123 Beige, (B) #134 Terracotta, (C) #133 Brick, (D) #172 Kelly Green
  • Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

sk: skip

sp(s): space(s)

st(s): stitch(es)

YO: yarn over

Rnd 1: With color A, ch 4, sl st to first ch forming a ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 dc in ring, hdc in ring, [hdc, 2 dc, hdc] in ring three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 8 dc

Rnd 2: With color B join to last st of Round 1, ch 3 (counts as dc) 5 dc in same st as join, sk 1 st, sc in next dc, sk 1 st, [6 dc in next hdc, sk 1 st, sc in next dc] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 4 sc, 24 dc

Rnd 3: With color C, join to any sc, ch 3 (counts as dc), 10 dc in the same st, sk 2 dc, sc in next 2 dc sts, sk next 2 dc, [11 dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 sc, 44 dc

Rnd 4: With color D, join to last st of Round 3, ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in same st as ch, 6 dc in next sc, sk 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st, [6 dc in next 2 sc, sk 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] three times, sl st to second to the last st join, fasten off. -8sc, 48 dc

Rnd 5: With color A join in any ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 6 sts, [hdc in next st, ch 1, hdc in next st, sc in next 13 sts] three times, hdc in next st, ch 1, hdc in next st, sc in remaining 6 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. – 52 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 6: With color B, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –60 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 7: With color C, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –68 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 8: With color D, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –76 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 9: With color A, join to any ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same sp, sk hdc, [sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st] five times, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 sp, sk hdc, [sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st] five times; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 28 sc, 60 dc

Rnd 10: With color B, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sk sc and 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across to ch-1 sp, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sk sc and 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, [ sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across to ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 28 sc, 60 dc

Rnd 11: With color C, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same sp, hdc in next hdc, [3 dc in next sc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] across, hdc in hdc *(dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next hdc, [3 dc in next sc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] across, hdc in hdc; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 20 sc, 68 dc

Rnd 12: With color D, join to any ch-1 sp,  ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1) dc in same sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next hdc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across, hdc in next hdc, hdc in next dc, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next hdc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across, hdc in next hdc, hdc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 16 hdc, 20 sc, 68 dc

Rnd 13: With Color A, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sc in each st across; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 hdc, 104 sc

Rnd 14: With Color B, join ot any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1) sc in each st across, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sc in each st across; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 112 sc

Weave in ends, block if desired.

Corded Edges-A Great Finish

Often times it is the small details that can really cause your crochet work to shine. One of those details can be found in the edging.

There are many times that I finish off a piece of fabric with a Reverse Single Crochet stitch, also known by the name “Crab Stitch”, but in my time teaching I have found that this stitch can be a bit to trying for some students. It requires a good sense of adjusting your yarns tension and working in the opposite direction (I discuss how to work the stitch here). However there is another stitch, The Corded Edge stitch.

The Corded Edge stitch looks very similar to the Reverse Single Crochet, but is easier to work. It is not quite a stitch as much as a technique that creates a braided or cabled look. It is worked in the last row of the fabric and is worked by rotating the two loops on the hook 360 degrees, and then finish the stitch.

Unlike a Reverse Single crochet, this technique can be used with any stitch. Below I have demonstrated this technique with a Corded Single Crochet and a Corded Double Crochet stitch.

To work a Corded Single crochet, you begin a single crochet just as you always do: Insert hook in indicated stitch, Yarn over and pull through a loop. Now with 2 loops on your hook, you rotate your hook 360 degrees. It is not crucial as to which direction you make this turn as long as you are consistent with each stitch. There is a slight difference in the appearance depending which way you rotate, so sample each and see which you prefer. I typically rotate in the direction it feels most comfortable for my hand to work.

Now you yarn over and pull through the 2 twisted loops on your hook. This completes the stitch, and you repeat it in the next stitch.

To work this technique as a Corded Double Crochet, you begin the Double crochet as normal: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, Yarn over, pull through a loop, Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Now with the last 2 loops on the hook you rotate your hook 360 degrees, yarn over and pull through the 2 twisted loops.

It is pretty simple, yet results in an edge that is very finished.

Two New Patterns for Autumn- Half Price!

Looking back it seems like I always find myself in this place every year…Autumn. The time of year that apparently has the calendar skipping weeks on me, as I really do not know where the time has gone, while making me feel like there is a ton of things I need to get done in a short span of time. I guess it leaves me overwhelmed, exhausted, and feeling like I have many unmet responsibilities.

So in all this I guess I should be really thankful that I have managed to release not just one, but two new patterns!

Lisa Souza Dyeworks is releasing a few new yarns, and being a designer means that I can sometimes get my hands on this yarn early to create some new ideas. As was the case with Nyam (a Superfine Merino and Cashmere fine weight yarn) and Pyrenees Bulky (a 100% Organic Merino yarn) I was able to create a 1 skein project that is perfect for the holidays.

Nyam lent itself particularly well to my new pattern, Contextual Shawl. This shawl is a simple one row repeat that can really flatter almost any yarn, of any weight, of any size, any fiber content. The size can easily be adjusted to make it larger or smaller, and yet to look at it the pattern is not readily apparent. It works up fast and can be used as a project on the go. I can see this in so many different colors and styles that the possibilities are endless.

Matrix Hooded Cowl worked up great in Pyrenees Bulky. I have not made a lot of cowls in the past, but I can see the appeal. This cowl is again a one skein project that is nice and wide, and the perfect size in my opinion to warm the neck and offer protection form the cold as a hood. The pattern actually has a mirroring quality to it, as halfway across the row you work the mirror image of the beginning. It is a 4 row repeat that has a bit of fun with stacked shapes. Don’t let the open spaces fool you, paired with this yarn it is quite warm, making it tighter might just make it unwearable.

As a special offer to you, as a reader, please enjoy 50% off either of these patterns at my Ravelry Store for the next month (They will be only $2.00 then on November 30 the price resets to its original $4.00). Enjoy your quick paced autumn season.

Links:

Ravelry Store

Contextual Shawl

Matrix Hooded Cowl

Free Pattern- Tapper Cowl

It started a couple of years ago, I took a trip with Lisa Souza Dyeworks to the New York Sheep and Wool Festival, known to many simply as Rhinebeck. I teamed up with Lisa and began offering a free pattern to go along with her limited edition yarn for the show. This next weekend, Rhinebeck is occurring again, just as it does every October, and I have another new pattern for you featured yarn (this year it is in Deluxe Sock!).

Instead of making it only available to those that attend the show, this year I decided to share it with you, my followers as well. I hope you enjoy this quick and relatively simple one skein project. If you want to try it in the same yarn you can order it here (www.lisaknit.com), I don’t know if the same color will be available as it is a limited edition, but there are many other beautiful ones to choose from.

If you decide you want to change the yarn, it is pretty forgiving for substitutions, but I would recommend a yarn that is no larger then a 3 weight (sport), with the best being a 2 weight (fingering).

If you would like a printer friendly version, I have one available on Ravelry for $2.

Tapper Cowl

Stunningly simple, yet the effect is confident and enjoyable. This simple stitch pattern allows the yarn to be the star; it has great drape and fabulous flow. Long enough to double up, and wide enough to act as a hood, a cowl that is versatile.   

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner    Finished Size Approximately: 52”x 17”

Materials List:

  • I/9/5.50mm size crochet hook
  • Lisa Souza Dyeworks Deluxe Sock! light weight 80% Superwash Merino,10% Nylon, 10% Cashmere (4oz/495yds): 1 skein color: Rhinebeck 2017 (www.lisaknit.com)
  • Tapestry needle

Gauge: 4 ½ (sc, ch 3) groups/13 rows= 4”

Pattern Note /Special Stitches

This pattern is worked in the round, without turning.

Pattern

Rnd 1: Ch 233, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, sk 3, [sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3] 57 times, sk last 3 sts, sl st to beg sc. -58 sc, (58) ch-3 sps

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, [sc in next sc, ch 3] around, sl st to beg sc.

Row 3-55: Rep Rnd 2.

Finishing- Weave in ends, attaching beg of original chain to the bottom of the first sc st, block as desired.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

rep: repeat

sc: single crochet

sk: skip

sp(s): space(s)

st(s): stitch(es)

Stitch Order Can Make All the Difference

Simple stitch switches can create a very different appearance. Sometimes these “switches” happen by mistake…I speak from experience, and sometimes they are thoroughly thought out.

Often my students look at me with a bit of “sure, that is true” look whenever I explain that crochet essentially has only 3 stitches, everything else is just variations. They think I am even crazier when I explain, it is all about stitch location that causes all the different looks.

I happened to reinforce this for myself just the other day. I was working up a pattern, and looking at my notes it stated “sc, dc” stitches. Pretty straight forward and I thought I knew what I meant, however when working up my fabric is was not looking like the sample swatch.

I had to go back and study my sample swatch…I was working my stitches in the single crochet on both fabrics so why were they so different in appearance? I finally found my answer….I worked the stitches in the opposite order. I was working a single crochet then a double crochet in the next single crochet stitch in the swatch sample, but in the fabric I was working a double crochet then a single crochet in the next single crochet stitch. Wow, I was surprised by the difference it caused.

One swatch looks like little blocks turned slightly aside, while the other looks a bit lacy, and almost like a stacked “v”. They are both worked with the same hook, the same yarn, the same number of stitches, yet the simple error of working the stitches in the opposite order caused a very different look.

I plan on playing around more with “switching” my stitches, you never know where I new idea can be generated and maybe by intentionally changing the stitch order I might find something truly fabulous…I will have to keep you posted.