Charity Blocks- Stacked Squares and Shell Corner

Over the last several weeks I have been doing a lot of work creating new design blocks for charity. These blocks can be used as you see fit to benefit others.

Materials

  • Cascade Yarn Pacific medium weight yarn, 60% acrylic/40% superwash merino wool (100g/3.5oz/213 yrd/195 m)
  • Hook size I/9/5.5mm, unless otherwise specified

Block measures 7″ x7″

Stacked Squares Block for Charity

Stacked Squares Block

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. –12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, bpdc around each dc across to ch-2 sp, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc around each dc across to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 12 bpdc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 3-7: Rep Row 2. –16 dc, 92 bpdc, 4 ch-2 sps

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Shell Corner Block for Charity

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. –12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –20 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnds 3-6: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc across to next ch-1 sp, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc across to next ch-1 sp, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –84 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Hiding Behind Crochet- Crochet Together

Sometimes I feel like I am hiding behind my crochet, but crochet together with others can make a difference. Crochet can be an ice breaker, and open up discussions with new people. Yet crochet can be a shield to avoid difficult situations.

It might seems a bit odd to think that this simple hobby/craft/art can be used in emotional ways. I have secretly been doing it for years.

I feel a bit naked talking about it, showing more vulnerability and such. However I think crochet is an avenue for bringing people together, and in that train of thought honestly works best.

Found some crochet in Istanbul….my daughter pulls out some crochet while waiting in line to enter the Hagia Sophia

I seek out crochet when I travel to help build bridges and feel a connection to the places I visit. Fortunately crochet is everywhere, and even if we don’t speak the same language the language of crochet is the same. These are tricks I use as ice breakers. I find out that we have more in common then we have as differences.

I am always amazed by the art that I find. Everyone is quick to point out their mistakes and reluctant to take the compliment. This must be a universal trait. It is fun to see the different way they put their stitches together, and get inspired by their work.

On the other hand, I bring my crochet to events that I might feel uncomfortable in. Situations that might be awkward or difficult are perfect for crochet. In these cases I might still be trying to find a new friend by putting forth my flag to find others that share the craft. Almost like a little passcode to a fellow member of an underground organization.

Hopefully I can find someone that will help make the situation less anxious.  

I guess I am trying to say that crochet is my way of finding my people and adding feeling of belonging when I need it. I am sure that this works for others as well. Hopefully, they can see me crocheting at the table in the coffee shop and feel that their people are there too. Making them feel welcome. (If you need some new tips on different crochet techniques, check out some of these.)

I always advocate for crochet world dominance. Maybe it is because I want to feel like I can always belong.

Work Into a Foundation Chain

It is not often considered, how many ways can I work into a foundation chain? The answer can be a bit surprising as it is six.

Typically when you start a crochet project, it doesn’t really matter how you work into the chain. As long as you are consistent and work into the chain the same way every stitch, everything is fine. However the chain has a unique structure and how you work into it can give you a little different result.

The Foundation Chain…the beginning of all crochet projects.

There are 3 parts to every chain. Often these are referred to as the top loop, the bottom loop, and the back bump. This is referenced by looking down at the chain seeing a “V” that looks like the top of a completed row of crochet.

Yet it may make more sense to think of the chain as the top of a crochet row. In which case the “top most loop” would be the back loop. The “bottom most loop” would be the front loop. While the Back Bump would be where the post of the crochet stitches would be located.

The most common ways to start a chain utilize inserting the hook into 1 or 2 loops. Inserting the hook under just 1 loop can be a really good option if you crochet tightly.  Working in either to top/back loop, the back bump, or the bottom/front loop allow for the yarn from the remaining 2 loops to be pulled up. This gives a bit more flexibility in your fabric.

Working in 1 loop of the foundation chain

One of the most commonly used, inserting the hook under the top/back loop. This is a great way for tight crocheters to begin their work.
Working in the bottom/front loop is probably the least used. You need to rotate the chain so that the back bump is facing upward and insert the hook under the now top most loop. Rotating the cahin creates a different effect.
Working in the Back Bump…with the “v” of the chain facing downward, insert the hook under the bump of the chain. This can look like a raised vertebrae of a dinosaur. It offers the neatest finish on the bottom edge of the crochet fabric.

An additional consideration for working only in the back bump is that the bottom of the stitch fabric will resemble the top of the crochet stitches. This can be a very nice finishing trick.

If you happen to be a loose crocheter using only 1 loop can cause there to be a wide gap between the bottom of the crochet stitch and the unused 2 loops of the chain. It might feel a bit flimsy.

Working into 2 lops of the foundation chain

Working through the top/back loop and back bump is the most common approach for working in 2 loops of the foundation chain.
A bit uncommon, but rotating the chain so the the back bump is facing, you can insert your hook under the back bump and the bottom/front loop (the rotation of the chain will place them at the top of the chain)
Working under the top/back and bottom/front loops of the chain is probably the tightest and most sturdy method to work into a chain as it has the least amount of opportunity to stretch out of shape and create gapping

The methods of working in 2 loops, be it the top/back loop & back bump, or the top/back & bottom/front loop, or the bottom/front loop and back bump results in less flexibility. This may be a bit more stable, but if you are a tight crocheter this might be a little difficult to work. For a loose crocheter this approach may offer the least amount of “gapping”.

In the large scheme of things, each of these approaches offer just a little subtle difference. So, play with it and see what you may like.

Substituting Yarn, Understanding the Fiber

Not all yarn is created equal so have some insight when substituting yarn in projects. There are various things that make a difference in this product and the fiber/material that is spun can be a much overlooked reason for a successful project. Essentially there are 3 different classification of materials: protein based, cellulous based, and synthetic.

Substituting Yarn- Protein Based

Protein based yarns are those made from a material from an animal, and put up in a hank (learn how to use a hank here). This can be wool, silk, alpaca, camel, bison, and et cetera. These fibers have some unique properties, for example wool can keep you warm even after it is wet. Wool is also fire resistant, meaning that it will only burn if it has a flame to it. In addition wool is “springy” and has some stretch.

While silk is actually warmer that wool, it will not keep you warm after it gets wet. Silk is also a very strong fiber that can be added to other fibers to help increase its strength.

If you ever wonder about how to care for a protein based yarn, think about how you would treat your own hair. If you would not treat your own hair with a certain product then don’t use it on your yarn.

Substituting Yarn- Cellulous Based

Cellulous based yarns are comprised of those like cotton, and linen. These fibers typically “breath” well and are considered very comfortable. Linen, while it can “wrinkle” it repels dirt. Cotton can absorb twice its weight in water, so it helps to make a handy dishcloth.

Synthetics

Synthetic based yarns, are those fibers that you cannot readily make or grow yourself. The most common in retail yarns is acrylic, but you can also find polyester, nylon, and such. Acrylic is a petroleum based product and it can be made to mimic any other fiber in feel, but it will not share the same properties as that fiber. It is actually mold resistant, but it is effected by long term or high heat. Heat will change the structural properties of the yarn, making it feel and behave differently than when first produced.

The fiber that makes up a yarn effect the outcome of your project, and the highlights listed above are just a quick overview of the properties. So, when substituting a yarn in your next project, don’t just look at the weight and yardage, also give some thought to the fiber content, you will improve the project outcome.

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block- Moogly CAL 2023

Wow! I am so excited to join you for another year of the Moogly CAL (check out all the squares here). This year my block has a few ends to weave in, and it uses more back post stitches than some may be accustom to. However I am happy with the results and I hope you like it too.

This block features texture work more than actual color work. Meaning if you want to work this block in only one color it will still be just as dramatic. Back Post Stitches are utilized as it really helps to add a great amount of textural and visual interest. The result of the stitch creates an raised affect that can be reminiscent of surface crochet. Tops of the stitches below become highlighted, adding the “chain” look on the surface of the fabric.

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block

Much of the remaining texture comes form working cluster stitches in places below the actual working round. I really love how this breaks up the visual rounds of the fabric and help add a continuous lines of texture. They almost act as “links” helping the eye dance along various “features”.

The block is named for two of my long time students, Jan and Joy. Both have had a trying year, yet crochet has continued to be an outlet. As many of us already realize crochet can be our therapy, just the movement of our hands help our mind. Fortunately it can do even more, by bringing people together. I look forward to seeing them at our weekly jamboree and helping them on their crochet journeys.

If you want to follow my journey in crochet, join my monthly newsletter, or join me in a class at various places around the United States.

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block

Materials

  • Red Heart With Love medium weight 100% acrylic yarn colors: (A) #1907 Boy
  • senberry, (B) #1702 Blush, (C) #1623 Mallard, (D) #1207 Cornsilk
  • J/10/6.00mm

Special Stitches

Treble Crochet 3 Cluster (tr3CL): Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops.

Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog): Yo twice, insert hook into the first indicated stitch, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into the next stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 3 loops.

Abbreviations

If you do not feel comfortable with standing stitches, they can be substituted by simply slip stitching to the indicated stitch, and creating a chain equivalent to the turning chain for the indicated stitch type. But if you want to learn about them, I offer a photo tutorial here. And Moogly offers a video here.

Pattern for this block of the Moogly CAL

Rnd 1: With A, Ch 5, dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1 (dc in same st, ch 1) 6 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 dc, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 2: With B, join to any dc with a ssc, 3fpdc in same dc, (sc, 3 fpdc in each dc around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 sc, 24 fpdc

Rnd 2, work 3 front post double crochets around the same stitch

Rnd 3: With C, join to any sc with a shdc, ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 1, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sc, ch 1] around, sl st to join. – 8 (hdc, ch 2, hdc), 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1, [sc in next hdc, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 (5 dc shells), 8 ch-1 sps

Finished Round 3, and beginning of Round 4

We work our first Clusters in this Moogly CAL

Rnd 5: With D, join with a sbpdc to the first dc of any 5-dc shell, bpdc in the next 4 dc sts, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (in Rnd 3), ch 1, [bpdc in each dc on next shell, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (in Rnd 3), ch 1,] around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 tr3CL, 40 bpdc, 16 ch-1 sps

Working Rnd 5, the tr3CL works around the ch-1 sp in Rnd 3
Finished the tr3CL and started the next bpdc

Rnd 6: With A, join with a ssc to a bpdc just before a tr3Cl, [tr2tog in the next sc 2 rows below (Rnd 4) and in the next sc 2 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), sc in each bpdc] around, sl st to join. –8 tr2tod, 40 sc, 

First insertion point for the tr2tog worked in rnd 4
Second insertion point for the tr2tog
The tr2tog

Rnd 7:  Sl st in tr2tog st, ch 5, (tr, ch 1) 3 times in same st, tr in same st, ch 1, sk 2 sc, blsc in next sc, [ch, 1 (tr, ch 1) 4 times in next tr2tog, tr in same st, sk 2 sc, ch 1, blsc in next sc] around, ch 1, sl st to 4th ch of ch 5 to join, fasten off. –8 (tr, ch 1) fans, 8 sc

Finished Rnd 7

Back Post stitches create an interesting checker of color

Rnd 8: With B, join with a sbpdc to the 1st tr of any fan, dc in ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6), [bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc innext tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6)] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3cl, 48 bpdc, 32 dc

Rnd 8, location of tr3CL in front loop of Rnd 6
Rnd 8 after working the tr3Cl…don’t forget the 2 bpdc at the top of the fan

Lets Start Squaring Things Up

Rnd 9: With C, join with a sdc to any of the 1st bpdc of the center of fan (the 2 bpdc worked in the same st), ch 2, dc in next bpsc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts, [dc in next bpdc, ch 2, dc in next bpdc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts] 3 times, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr2tog, 8 sc

One side of the block! Working rnd 9

Watch the stitch changes, we are flattening out the sides

Rnd 10: With D, join with sdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in same sp, [bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp of corner] 3 times,  bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, sl st to join.

Rnd 11: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner, dc in each st across to corner, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –104 dc (26 dc each side)

On the Home Stretch, the Moogly CAL block is almost done…

Rnd 12: With C, join with shdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same st, [blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9) (note: skip the stitch directly behind the cluster, here and throughout), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3Cl

Rnd 13: With A, join with ssc in any ch-2 corner, ch 2, sc in same sp, blsc in each st across, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp, blsc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –116 sc (29 sc each side)

Check out all the blocks for this year’s Moogly CAL! This is going to be fun!