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Granny Square – Some Ideas and New Approaches.

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Granny Squares never really go out of fashion, but there are times they are all the rage. We are entering the rage time.

There are many ways to work a traditional granny square. They can be worked as one color or many. They can be work as join-as-you-go or sewn together later. Even the relatively simple stitch pattern as some variation.

I have stumbled across some techniques that I find handy when creating granny squares. When working in one color I prefer either working in the continuous round, or working half a corner and joining with a crochet stitch instead of a chain (this places the working yarn in the center of the corner without having to slip stitch across).

When working different colors each round I have found that joining with standing stitches really helps to give a nice clean look.

If you would like to try a hand at the granny square, check out this free pattern for my Granny Mug Jacket.

Granny Square Free Pattern

Granny Mug Jacket         by Linda Dean

Embrace autumn and crochet classics with this Granny Square Mug Jacket. This design is simple, classic, and stylish all wrapped together.

Size 3” tall x 9” wide  Skill beginning Materials G/6/4.00mm crochet hook, 4 colors Jamieson’s Naturally Shetland Double Knitting yarn Gauge Motif=3″x3″

Motif (make 3)

Rnd 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, [3 dc in same st, ch 2] 3 times, join, fasten off. 

Rnd 2: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp) ch 1] 3 times, join, fasten off.

Are you changing colors?

Rnd 3: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, 3 dc in ch-1 sp [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp), 3 dc inch-1 sp] 3 times, join, fasten off.

Lets get ready to join

Rnd 4: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp] 2 times, join, fasten off.

Join Motifs together creating a strip.

Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Two Different Closures

Edging

Loop Closure

Joint to any ch-2 corner, to work down the long edge, ch 1, sc in same sp,  sl st in each st along long edge to other corner, sc in corner, ch  15, sk entire short edge of rectangle, sc in next corner, sl st  across long edge of rectangle, sc in corner, ch 5, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Button Closure

Join to any ch-2 corner to work down the short edge, ch 1, sc in same corner, sc in next 2 sts, ch  10,  sc in next 6 sts, ch 10,  in rem sts on side to corner, sl st in each st around rectangle to first sc, join.  Fasten off.

Sew two  ½” buttons on the opposite side of the loops.

Info about the photo

So whenever I put up photos that show my kitchen counters, I get questions. It is a granite countertop, but the most questions come up about my back splash. It is actually tin that is treated to look like copper, and comes from the company American Tin Ceiling. I have had it for several years, it is easy to maintain and cheaper then tile, not to mention easier to install. No, I get no kick backs from this company, but I usually get a lot of questions.

Creating Foundation Stitches in Crochet

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Changing most foundation rows into a Foundation Stitches can be done relatively easy.

A Foundation Stitch in crochet is when you create the chain and the stitch at the same time, instead of creating a chain and working into it. It creates a stitch with beginning with more stretch, and you do not have to count chains.

Row of Foundation Double Crochet

Starting

To start you will need to create a chain that is the equivalent of the turning chain for the stitch used, plus 1 more. Meaning if you are creating a single crochet foundation row, a single crochet typically uses a chain 1 to turn a row, so you would chain 1 + 1 more thus having a chain 2.

If you were creating a double crochet the typical turning chain is a chain 3, and then you would add 1 more chain. So to work a Foundation Double crochet chain 4.

Then begin working the stitch in the first chain created, this is the chain nearest the slip knot. After “anchoring” (yo and pull through a loop) in this chain, create a chain 1. This chain 1 is going to be the base of the stitch and where you will start working the next stitch, so I pinch this point, but inserting a stitch marker can help as you are learning to find the location again. After creating this chain 1, continue working the remaining steps for the desired stitch.

The “chain 1” that is marked or pinched, is where you will start the next stitch, insert your hook here under 2 loops for a nicer finished edge. “anchor” the stitch, and then chain 1 again, moving marker to or pinching this new chain, and finishing the stitch. Once again, this newly marker chain is where you will work the next stitch.

After you understand this concept of “anchoring”, create a chain, and finish a stitch; essentially creating the chain at the bottom of the stitch (much like an extended stitch but instead of adding height it is used as a base for the stitch), you can modify many differing foundation rows.

Creating Foundation Stitches- Single Crochet

  • Chain 2
  • Insert hook into 2nd chain from hook
  • Yarn over, pull up a loop
  • Chain 1 (mark or pinch this chain)
  • Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.
  • *Insert hook into marked or pinched chain
  • Yarn over, pull up a loop,
  • Chain 1 (move marker to or pinch this chain)
  • Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.
  • Repeat from * until desired length
Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook
Insert marker in chain
Move marker to next chain
Row of Foundation Single Crochet

Foundation Double Crochet

  • Chain 4
  • Yarn over, insert hook into 4th chain from hook
  • Yarn over, pull up a loop
  • Chain 1 (mark or pinch this chain)
  • [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] twice
  • *Yarn over, insert hook into marked or pinched chain
  • Yarn over, pull up a loop
  • Chain 1 (move marker to or pinch this chain)
  • [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] twice
  • Repeat from * until desired length

Diamonds Reflected Block- Moogly CAL 2024

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I love starting the New Year with the Moogly CAL! (Check out all the blocks for the year here). If you are new to the CAL check out Moogly’s version of this block, and her notes here.

Diamonds Reflected Block will seem a bit wonky until it is blocked, so do not get discouraged early on. The other thing that will help with the “wonkiness” is to ensure that you are pulling the long loops up to the height of the working row. If these loops are too short they squish the fabric down and cause puckering.

I was inspired to work the Diamonds Reflected during my family’s trip to the Grand Canyon just after Christmas. It was my first time to visit, and it is an inspiring place. I was even swatching up some ideas for this block with flying in a helicopter over the North Rim. And yes, I was looking out the window too. Fortunately I don’t have the seat with the glass floor…my husband had that…I don’t know how well my “I don’t have a fear of heights” statement would succeed in that seat.

If you want to follow along in my journeys join my monthly newsletter here, or join one of my classes.

Diamonds Reflected Block

Materials

  • Red Heart With Love medium weight 100% acrylic yarn colors: (A) #1538 Lilac, (B) #1207 Cornsilk, (C) #1907 Boysenberry, (D) #1304 Santorini
  • J/10/6.00mm crochet hook

Special Stitfches and Notes

Ssc= Standing single crochet

Long Loop Single Crochet (LLsc): Insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, pull a long loop up to height if the working row, yo, pull through 2 loops. (Need a visual, check out how I use this technique in a Spike Stitch Leaf)

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in same st, ch 2, [3 sc, ch 2] 3 times, sl st to join. – 12 sc (3 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp,  sc in each st across] 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in rem sts to beg st, sl st to join. –20 sc (5 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 3-5: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off after Rnd 5. – 44 sc (11 sc per side) , 4 ch-2 sps

Start the long loops

Rnd 6: With B, join with a ssc to any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in last 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [sc in next 2 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in last 2 sts] 3 times, sl st to join.– 24 sc, 4ch-2 sps, 28 LLsc sts

Rnds 7-10: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off at the end of Rnd 10. – 84 sc (21 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

You should start seeing the diamonds…

Rnd 11: With C, join with a ssc to any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc in next 3 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next 3 sts, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next 3 sts] 3 times, sl st to join. –36 sc, 56 LLsc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 12-15:  Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off after Rnd 15. –124 sc (31 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Last time with the long loops…

Rnd 16: With D, join with a ssc to any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc in next 4 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, [sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd] 2 times sc in next 3 sts, {(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 4 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, [sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd] 2 times sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} 3 times, sl st to join. –48 sc, 84 LLsc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 17-18: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten Off. Weave in ends. Block.

Charity Blocks- Tunisian Honeycomb and Airy

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Over the last several weeks I have been doing a lot of work creating new design blocks for charity. These blocks can be used as you see fit to benefit others.

Materials

  • Cascade Yarn Pacific medium weight yarn, 60% acrylic/40% superwash merino wool (100g/3.5oz/213 yrd/195 m)
  • 8 mm Tunisian crochet hook

Block measures 7″ x7″

Honeycomb Tunisian Block for Charity

Honeycomb Tunisian block for Charity

Row 1: Ch 22, starting in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop in each ch across. RP. –22 loops on hook

Row 2: [Tss, Tps] across, Tss in last st. RP.

Row 3: [Tps, Tss] across, Tss in last st. RP.

Rows 4-15: Rep Rows 2 & 3.

Row 16: Sc in each st across, inserting hook alternating as for Tss and Tps, ending with Tss. –22 sc

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Airy Tunisian Block for Charity

Row 1: Ch 22, starting in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop in each ch across. RP. –22 loops on hook

Row 2: [Tss, yo, sk 1 st] across, Tss in last st. RP.

Row 3: Tss in each st across, including yo sts. RP.

Row 4: [Yo, sk 1 st, Tss] across, Tss in last st. RP.

Row 5: Rep Row 3.

Rows 6-13: Rep Rows 2-5 twice.

Row 14: Rep Row 2.

Row 15: Sc in each st across inserting hook as for Tss. –22 sc

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Charity Block- Mesh

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Over the last several weeks I have been doing a lot of work creating new design blocks for charity. These blocks can be used as you see fit to benefit others.

Materials

  • Cascade Yarn Pacific medium weight yarn, 60% acrylic/40% superwash merino wool (100g/3.5oz/213 yrd/195 m)
  • Hook size I/9/5.5mm, unless otherwise specified

Block measures 7″ x7″

Mesh block for Charity

Mesh block for charity

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form ring, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. –12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, sk 1 st, sc in next st, ch 2 [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sk 1 st, sc in next st, ch 2] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 12 ch-2 sps, 4 sc

Rnd 3: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 2 times, {(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 2 times} 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 8 sc, 16 ch-2 sps

Rnd 4: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 3 times, {(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 3 times} 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 12 sc, 20 ch-2 sps

Rnd 5: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 4 times, {(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 4 times} 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 16 sc, 24 ch-2 sps

Rnd 6: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 5 times, {(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 5 times} 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 20 sc, 28 ch-2 sps

Rnd 7: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 6 times, {(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 6 times} 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 24 sc, 32 ch-2 sps

Rnd 8: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 7 times, {(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, [sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2] 7 times} 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 28 sc, 36 ch-2 sps

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in corner ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch across to next corner ch-2 sp] 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last corner ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch to end, sl st in first sc to join. –124 sc

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.