Category Archives: Stitch Patterns

The Biker Hooded Poncho- I Do Love You Enough to Work In Black

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So, working in black yarn is a trial. This is because it can often be difficult to see the stitches. However when my young adult son asked for a hood poncho in black, how can I really say no? SO I hope you enjoy this working in black poncho pattern.

I have some tips that help to work in black, such as placing a white item (maybe a sheet, pillowcase, or even paper) behind the area I am working. Using some direct lighting, possibly over my shoulder, helps too. Another tip to use large hooks and create a drapey fabric.

This poncho is worked from the neck downward, in the round in a spiral fashion. The first round is worked in a foundation single crochet to have a bit more stretch than a typical beginning chain.

The stitch pattern is a simple single crochet, chain 1, skip 1 stitch. This stitch can sometimes be referred to as the “linen” stitch or “moss” stitch.

The Biker Hooded Poncho by Linda Dean

Skill Intermediate

Gauge 16 sc+ch1 sts/16 rows=4”

Materials

  • K/10 ½ /6.5 mm crochet hook
  • Berroco Vintage medium weight 52% Acrylic/40% Wool/8% Nylon yarn (218yrds/200m/3.5oz/100g) 10 skein color: #5145 Cast Iron

Special Stitches

Fsc: Foundation single crochet (This technique creates a foundation chain and a row of single crochet stitches in one) –

Step 1:Place a slip knot on hook, ch 2, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook and draw up a loop; yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the “chain”); yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the “single crochet”).

Step 2:Insert hook into the “chain” of the previous stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the “chain”), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the “single crochet”). Repeat for the length of foundation.

Start the Working in Black Poncho Pattern

Rnd 1: [Fsc 22 times, ch 2] 4 times, sl st to top of first st to join.

Now we start the stitch pattern

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, {ch 1, sk 1, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1] across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around, do not join.

Rnd 3: Sc in next ch-1 sp, {ch 1, sk 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 1] across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around.

Now we just keep repeating….

Rnds 4-78: Rep Rnd 3.

Rnd 79: {Working in back loops only, sc in each sc and ch across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around.

Rnds 80-81: {Working in back loops only, sc in each sc across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around. Fasten off.

Working in black poncho pattern- Hood

Row 1: Working on the opposite side of the foundation chain, join at any point opposite the ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] across to same st as join, turn.

We work the same stitch pattern, but now we work it back and forth instead of in the round- note the beginning and ending changes

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch 1 sp] around to last st, sc in last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] across to last 2 sts, sc in last st, turn.

Some more repeating

Rows 4-70: Rep Rows 2-3. Fasten off.

Fold the last row in half so that the last st and first st are together. Seam along row.

Hood Edging

Rnd 1: Working in the edge of the rows of hood, with RS facing, join to Row 1, sc in each row end around, do not join.

Rnds 2-4: Working in the back loop of sts, sc in each st around. Fasten off.

Mosaic Magic Crochet- 1 of 3 Methods

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The third type of Mosaic crochet is not as commonly used. It involves a type of spike stitch, and can be reversible. It is a bit more involved then the previous methods, but with stunning results.

The most famous patterns using this approach are in the book and video by Lily Chin, Mosaic Magic.

This method uses 2 rows of each color. Allowing for carrying the color changes up the side like Inset Mosaic, and not weaving in ends like that of Overlay Mosaic Crochet.

How to work the stitch- Mosaic Magic

Using Long Loop Double crochet, essentially working a regular double crochet, but the insertion is 2 rows below the working row. The “anchoring” loop is pulled up to the height of the fabric, as a long loop. Work this as such: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch 2 rows below working row, yarn over, pull through a loop, pull up to height of fabric, and finish the double crochet.

Yarn over and insert the hook in the stitch 2 rows below, yarn over and pull the loop up to the height of the fabric.

A double crochet long loop, or double crochet spike or flame stitch is worked instead of a single crochet because it allows for a bit more fabric at the top of the stitch. A single crochet would create more gapping, or holes in the fabric.

Complete the double crochet as usual

One thing to consider with Mosaic Magic is that the “spike”, “long loop” or “flame” is not very wide. As such working 2 of these stitches next to each other does not create a flattering look. It doesn’t look completed, and a bit amateurish. To compensate for this, look for patterns that only have 1 drop down stitch in a sequence.

Mosaic Magic Method

Another benefit to this approach is that you can work stitches diagonally by simply not working in the stitch directly below. This can create some hounds tooth effects. Crossing the “spike” stitches can create rounded effects.

I would recommend that you give this or any of the 3 methods for Mosaic Crochet. Check out Lily Chin’s book for some Mosaic designs that are not as geometric as typical Overlay and Inset Mosaic. Basically, go play with color.

2 Ways -Thermal Crochet

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Essentially there are 2 ways to create a thermal crochet stitch. I was first introduced to this technique over a decade ago. “Thermal” is worked one way, and today you can find it worked in a completely different manner. This is proves to me even more, that you cannot rely on the fancy names of crochet stitches, make sure and check the special stitches of a pattern.

However, I thought I would share what I have learned about this stitch. Basically a thermal stitch is one that creates a double sided fabric. Stitches are connected by working through the loops of 2 different rows to create the third.

Bottom Up method of Thermal Single Crochet Fabric
Top Down Method Thermal Single Crochet Fabric

Bottom Up -1 of 2 ways thermal crochet

I learned to connect these stitches from the “bottom up”. Insert the hook through the loop of the row 2 rows below upwardly and then through the front loop of the row typically be worked into. Yarn is wrapped around the hook and then pulled through these 2 loops. There is an additional yarn over, and pull through the last two loops; a single crochet thermal stitch is created. Learn it here.

Inserting hook from the “bottom up” to create the thermal single crochet

The bottom up method creates a fabric that has the “front” or “right” side of the fabric facing outward, while the “back” of the stitch is captured in the center of the fabric.

Top Down -1 of 2 ways thermal crochet

The latest way I have seen this stitch explained, uses the same loops of the stitch rows has the base of the stitch, but instead works the hook down through the front loop of the regular working row and then through the unused loop of the row 2 rows below.

Created from the “top down” method thermal single crochet

To prevent the stitches from twisting, the work is essentially worked “backwards”.  Meaning that you are crocheting the fabric in the opposite direction from that which you usually do. This “top down” method creates a fabric that has the “wrong” of “back” side of the fabric facing outward with the “front” encapsulated in the center.

There are some slight visual differences with these methods, and the Bottom up approach tends to lend itself better to working in the round.

This is an interesting stitch, either way you work it. I am continuing to explore its possibilities.

Crochet- Puffs, Bobbles and Popcorns

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Crochet Puffs, Bobbles, and Popcorns are great ways to add texture for fabric. The differences between these stitch techniques is subtle, but help vary the size.

This stitches add great texture, and can even be worked in Tunisian Crochet.

Texture in crochet, the big one is a forward facing Popcorn, followed by the medium size Bobble and a smaller size Puff.

Crochet Puffs

Puff stitch is many loops that are added to a hook. Beginning this stitch is very much like a single crochet, by inserting the hook and pulling through a loop. The process of adding loops happens by yarning over the hook and reinserting the hook into the same stitch, yarning over and pulling through a loop. Repeat This step a number of times. Finish by a final yarn over and pulled through all the loops.

Many loops are added to the hook to create the Puff stitch.
The Puff stitch is completed by yarning over and pulling through all the loops on the hook.

The more loops the fatter the puff stitch can be.

Fatter stitches can also be created by yarn weight. A thin yarn may not need as many loops as a lighter weight yarn to create a nice texture.

Another nice feature is that this stitch is reversible.

A completed Puff stitch

Crochet Bobbles

Bobbles are incomplete double crochet stitches worked in the same stitch. Work like a double crochet in the beginning. Work a double crochet until there is 2 loops left on the hook. Yarn over, insert you hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Then yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leaving remaining loops unworked repeat the process.

A set of partially completed double crochets create the base for this stitch.

Bobble stitches naturally push themselves to the back of the fabric, and have more roundness by working an odd number of partially completed double crochet stitches.

A completed Bobble

Crochet Popcorns

Creating popcorn stitches is actually a unique twist on shell stitches. Create this large texture bump by making a shell of double crochets. Remove the hook from the working loop and reinserted in the top of the first double crochet of the shell. The direction you insert the crochet hook in this stitch is what actually determines what side of the fabric the popcorn pushes to. Inserting the hook from the front to the back creates a forward facing popcorn, while inserting from the back to front creates a backward facing popcorn.

Reinserting the hook into the first double crochet of the shell, from front to back, creates a forward facing popcorn.

Reinsert the hook in the working loop and pull it through the stitch. This closes the top of the stitch.

Pull the working loop through the stitch to “close” the “shell” and create the popcorn.

Just as the bobble, by creating an odd number of double crochet stitches the popcorn can be more rounded.

Crochet Puffs, Bobbles, and Popcorns stitches can dress up many projects and can be added just about anywhere on just about anything.

Tunisian Puffs, Bobbles, and Popcorns

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Creating Tunisian puffs, bobbles and popcorns is relatively straight forward. They are an easy way to create texture in Tunisian Crochet. These three stitches all stand off the fabric, but vary in size.

Essentially this is an approach of working standard crochet within Tunisian. Working the texture stitches on the forward pass.

Tunisian Texture: Top: Popcorn, middle: Bobble, bottom: Puff

Tunisian Puffs

To work a Tunisian Puff Stitch yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch and yarn over and pull through a loop. This is basically working a yarn over before pulling up the loop of whatever Tunisian stitch you are working. (All the photo samples are worked with Tunisian Simple Stitch). Repeat this same technique multiple times in the same space. The last step is to yarn over and pull through all the loops you have worked in this stitch (including the first yarn over).

(Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over pull up a loop) repeat 3 times, yarn over, pull through 6 loops.
Competed Tunisian Puff Stitch

Tunisian Bobbles

Creating a Tunisian Bobble stitch requires a yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loop. This is much like many incomplete double crochet stitches. The techniques is repeated until the bobble is the desired size, and completed with a yarn over and pull through of all the partially completed stitches in the Tunisian stitch.

(Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops) repeat 5 times, yarn over and pull through 5 loops
Completed Tunisian Bobble stitch

Check out the traditional crochet Bobble stitch for a comparison.

Tunisian Popcorns

Working a Tunisian Popcorn stitch, as you might expect is like working a traditional crochet Popcorn. However there is a slight difference. Start with a yarn over, and insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat this step one more time, then yarn over and pull through the last 3 loops on the hook. (The reason for this is that Tunisian does not typically complete stitches in the forward pass, as such the next adjacent loop on the hook is the loop of the previous stitch). This will complete 2 double crochet stitches together. Work a few more double crochets in this stitch, remove hook from last loop of completed double crochet, insert hook into the top of the 2 double crochets worked together, and pull the loop through.

(Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops) 2 times, Yarn over pull through 3 loops, work 3 double crochets in same stitch, remove hook from last loop, insert hook into first completed stitch in this demonstration, pull last loop through.
Completed Tunisian Popcorn Stitch

All return passes are worked the same, and the stitches are all pushed toward the front of the fabric. Notice that the texture lines up with the vertical lines of the Simple stitch in the photos. This helps to easily see where the stitches are located.