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Charity Block- Royal Stack

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Over the last several weeks I have been doing a lot of work creating new design blocks for charity. These blocks can be used as you see fit to benefit others.

Materials

  • Cascade Yarn Pacific medium weight yarn, 60% acrylic/40% superwash merino wool (100g/3.5oz/213 yrd/195 m)
  • Hook size I/9/5.5mm, unless otherwise specified

Block measures 7″ x7″

Royal Stack Block for Charity

Royal Stack Block

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. –12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, sk 1 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next dc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, sk 1 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next dc] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –32 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps

Rnd 3: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, bpdc around next 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, bpdc around last 2 dc before ch-2 sp, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc around next 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, bpdc around last 2 dc before ch-2 sp] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 bpdc, 28 dc, 8 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps

Use more posts to make things “pop”

Rnd 4: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, bpdc around next 2 dc, ch 1, sk next (2 dc, ch-1 sp and dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next dc, ch 1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp and 2 dc), bpdc around next 2 dc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc around next 2 dc, ch 1, sk next (2 dc, ch-1 sp and dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next dc, ch 1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp and 2 dc), bpdc around next 2 dc] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 bpdc, 32 dc, 12 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 5: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, bpdc around next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp and 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 dc and ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, bpdc around next 2 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc around next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp and 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next 2 dc and ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, bpdc around next 2 sts] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 bpdc, 40 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 20 ch-1 sps

Adds a bit of “class” to Charity

Rnd 6: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, bpdc around next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, hdc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 dc, hdc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, bpdc around next 2 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc around next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, hdc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 dc, hdc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, bpdc around next 2 dc] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 bpdc, 8 ch-2 sps, 20 sc, 8 hdc, 40 dc

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch-1 sp across to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch-1 sp to end, sl st in first sc to join. 92 sc

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Charity Block- Columns

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Over the last several weeks I have been doing a lot of work creating new design blocks for charity. These blocks can be used as you see fit to benefit others.

Materials

  • Cascade Yarn Pacific medium weight yarn, 60% acrylic/40% superwash merino wool (100g/3.5oz/213 yrd/195 m)
  • Hook size I/9/5.5mm, unless otherwise specified

Block measures 7″ x7″

Columns Block for Charity

Columns Block

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. –12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 fpdc, 4 bpdc

Rnds 3-8: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, fpdc around next st, (bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st) across to next ch-2 sp, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc around next st, (bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st) across to ch-2 sp] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 56 fpdc, 52 bpdc

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Charity Blocks- Stacked Squares and Shell Corner

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Over the last several weeks I have been doing a lot of work creating new design blocks for charity. These blocks can be used as you see fit to benefit others.

Materials

  • Cascade Yarn Pacific medium weight yarn, 60% acrylic/40% superwash merino wool (100g/3.5oz/213 yrd/195 m)
  • Hook size I/9/5.5mm, unless otherwise specified

Block measures 7″ x7″

Stacked Squares Block for Charity

Stacked Squares Block

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. –12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, bpdc around each dc across to ch-2 sp, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, bpdc around each dc across to next ch-2 sp] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –16 dc, 12 bpdc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 3-7: Rep Row 2. –16 dc, 92 bpdc, 4 ch-2 sps

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Shell Corner Block for Charity

Rnd 1: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, 2 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join. –12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –20 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnds 3-6: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc across to next ch-1 sp, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc across to next ch-1 sp, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. –84 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps

Fasten off, weave in ends, block.

Hiding Behind Crochet- Crochet Together

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Sometimes I feel like I am hiding behind my crochet, but crochet together with others can make a difference. Crochet can be an ice breaker, and open up discussions with new people. Yet crochet can be a shield to avoid difficult situations.

It might seems a bit odd to think that this simple hobby/craft/art can be used in emotional ways. I have secretly been doing it for years.

I feel a bit naked talking about it, showing more vulnerability and such. However I think crochet is an avenue for bringing people together, and in that train of thought honestly works best.

Found some crochet in Istanbul….my daughter pulls out some crochet while waiting in line to enter the Hagia Sophia

I seek out crochet when I travel to help build bridges and feel a connection to the places I visit. Fortunately crochet is everywhere, and even if we don’t speak the same language the language of crochet is the same. These are tricks I use as ice breakers. I find out that we have more in common then we have as differences.

I am always amazed by the art that I find. Everyone is quick to point out their mistakes and reluctant to take the compliment. This must be a universal trait. It is fun to see the different way they put their stitches together, and get inspired by their work.

On the other hand, I bring my crochet to events that I might feel uncomfortable in. Situations that might be awkward or difficult are perfect for crochet. In these cases I might still be trying to find a new friend by putting forth my flag to find others that share the craft. Almost like a little passcode to a fellow member of an underground organization.

Hopefully I can find someone that will help make the situation less anxious.  

I guess I am trying to say that crochet is my way of finding my people and adding feeling of belonging when I need it. I am sure that this works for others as well. Hopefully, they can see me crocheting at the table in the coffee shop and feel that their people are there too. Making them feel welcome. (If you need some new tips on different crochet techniques, check out some of these.)

I always advocate for crochet world dominance. Maybe it is because I want to feel like I can always belong.

Work Into a Foundation Chain

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It is not often considered, how many ways can I work into a foundation chain? The answer can be a bit surprising as it is six.

Typically when you start a crochet project, it doesn’t really matter how you work into the chain. As long as you are consistent and work into the chain the same way every stitch, everything is fine. However the chain has a unique structure and how you work into it can give you a little different result.

The Foundation Chain…the beginning of all crochet projects.

There are 3 parts to every chain. Often these are referred to as the top loop, the bottom loop, and the back bump. This is referenced by looking down at the chain seeing a “V” that looks like the top of a completed row of crochet.

Yet it may make more sense to think of the chain as the top of a crochet row. In which case the “top most loop” would be the back loop. The “bottom most loop” would be the front loop. While the Back Bump would be where the post of the crochet stitches would be located.

The most common ways to start a chain utilize inserting the hook into 1 or 2 loops. Inserting the hook under just 1 loop can be a really good option if you crochet tightly.  Working in either to top/back loop, the back bump, or the bottom/front loop allow for the yarn from the remaining 2 loops to be pulled up. This gives a bit more flexibility in your fabric.

Working in 1 loop of the foundation chain

One of the most commonly used, inserting the hook under the top/back loop. This is a great way for tight crocheters to begin their work.
Working in the bottom/front loop is probably the least used. You need to rotate the chain so that the back bump is facing upward and insert the hook under the now top most loop. Rotating the cahin creates a different effect.
Working in the Back Bump…with the “v” of the chain facing downward, insert the hook under the bump of the chain. This can look like a raised vertebrae of a dinosaur. It offers the neatest finish on the bottom edge of the crochet fabric.

An additional consideration for working only in the back bump is that the bottom of the stitch fabric will resemble the top of the crochet stitches. This can be a very nice finishing trick.

If you happen to be a loose crocheter using only 1 loop can cause there to be a wide gap between the bottom of the crochet stitch and the unused 2 loops of the chain. It might feel a bit flimsy.

Working into 2 lops of the foundation chain

Working through the top/back loop and back bump is the most common approach for working in 2 loops of the foundation chain.
A bit uncommon, but rotating the chain so the the back bump is facing, you can insert your hook under the back bump and the bottom/front loop (the rotation of the chain will place them at the top of the chain)
Working under the top/back and bottom/front loops of the chain is probably the tightest and most sturdy method to work into a chain as it has the least amount of opportunity to stretch out of shape and create gapping

The methods of working in 2 loops, be it the top/back loop & back bump, or the top/back & bottom/front loop, or the bottom/front loop and back bump results in less flexibility. This may be a bit more stable, but if you are a tight crocheter this might be a little difficult to work. For a loose crocheter this approach may offer the least amount of “gapping”.

In the large scheme of things, each of these approaches offer just a little subtle difference. So, play with it and see what you may like.