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Horizontal Cables in Crochet

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The most common cables in crochet are created horizontally. This is because it is the most straight forward. Notice I did not say easiest, it is not something that a beginner feels successful tackling. However, it is worked by skipping stitches and then working into the stitches that are skipped. Usually with a front post stitch.

But did you know there were vertical cables? These cables may actually be easier to work, but have a little more housekeeping to keep things in order. Instead of skipping stitches, you are working multiple rows at the same time.

To create a 2 x 2 cable, meaning that it appears that 2 lines are crossing over 2 others, you need to work 4 rows at the same time. This is where the house keeping comes in.

These rows can be created with any basic stitch. I do think that the half double crochet lends itself well to a dynamic effect. Especially when the subsequent rows are worked in the famous third bar, or back bar of the stitch. This creates an effect that looks like “chains” for the visible lines of the row.

Notice the differing look between the standard hdc stitch and working in the third/back bar

Starting Row 1

To begin, join and work a set number of stitches. Pull the loop up, remove the hook and move the working loop and working yarn to the front of the fabric. Join the second row atop the same joined stitch of the first row. Work across the stitches just worked for Row 1 of the cable. Once again pull the loop up, remove the hook, and move the working loop and working yarn to the front of the fabric.

Begin Row 2

Now we start to cable. Join the third yarn atop the same place as the joins for Rows 1 and 2. Work across the stitches of Row 2, now work a set number of stiches on the base fabric, the same place that Row 1 was being worked. This creates a step down. Make sure the yarns from Rows 1 and 2 are to the front of the fabric. Pull up the loop, remove the hook, and make sure the working loop and working yarn are in front of the fabric.

“Stepping down” Row 3

Join the fourth yarn at top the same point of the other three rows and work all the way across Row 3. Once again, pull up the loop, remove the hook, and keep the working loop and working yarn in the front of the fabric.

The rows “step down” onto the base fabric

Horizontal Cables crossing

Time to cross. Now pick up the working loop from Row 1. Work the next stitch on atop the next direct stitch of Row 4. If you were working forward on the row this stitch would be directly above it, and in this case 2 rows above. Work across Row 4, now step down and work the set number of stitches on the base fabric. Pull up the loop again, remove the hook and make sure the working loop and working yarn in the front of the fabric again.

The row on the base fabric now crosses atop the next stitch

Essentially you just went up and then down, by beginning working atop Row 4 and then dropping down to bas fabric again. Setting up the next cross.

Row 2 just follows Row 1. Pull up the loop, remove the hook, make sure the working loop and working yarns are in the front of the fabric. Move back to “Row 3” which is the live loop the is on the base fabric behind you working direction.

Repeat the process you just did for Row 1. Up atop the stitch, across the row and down to the base fabric, pull up the loop, remove the hook. Pull everything forward and pick up the loop of the next row, Row 4, and this row just follows what was just worked.

Housekeeping

Once you get into the rhythm it flows along. The only housekeeping being ensuring that all of the yarn doesn’t become too twisted as you work along. If you need to set the fabric down before finishing off, use stitch markers to put in these “pulled up loops”. Honestly, if you feel like the stitches or yarn are not behaving for you placing stitch markers in the loops as you remove the hook help you to keep everything in place.

I find that this video my Marly Bird is really helpful in understanding the technique.

Horizontal cables corners

I have really enjoyed using the technique for edgings, especially around blankets. It gives a nice finished statement. I just have to be mindful in turning the corners. To ensure that they lay flat, I need to add “turning corner” stitches in the cable. This may mean that in the base row I work 3 stitches in the corner. I count them in my “base” number between the twists. For each subsequent rows I add the “turning corner” of 3 stitches in the center stitch of the 3 stitches below. This may mean that I am working more stitches than I usually do in the last rows. Between the twist there may be more, but it is not greatly noticed and helps the fabric not buckle.

Moogly CAL- The Christine Quilt Block

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I am so thrilled to join you for another Moogly CAL! This year I am sharing The Christine Quilt Block, a block using simple stitches to create fabulous color blocking.

This square grew out of my playing with the traditional quilt block, the half square triangle. The half square triangle is traditionally only 2 colors, yet is put together in quilts to create many classic designs. I have played with a couple of ways to create this half square triangle in crochet. You can see some ideas of how this 2 tone block can be worked into various design here.

However, for the CAL I took this technique in a little different direction, using more than 2 colors. I found that I couldn’t decide which color placement I preferred. So I have 2 options for you to check out. One has the same colors per side, and the other rotates them.

This block is worked with 2 colors per round, and turning after joining the round. Don’t fasten off and join, you would create a half square triangle in 2 colors.

I will admit that this square was inspired by one of my students, Christine. Just like the block, she is generous with many sides to herself that add color to a world of gray. It also happens that she has quilting in her skill set. Thus I can tease about having to have things perfectly worked, and square.

Love to have you join me

If you feel inclined to see more of my work throughout the year sign up for my monthly newsletter. It is where I share my crochet journey. Or, join me in person at my various teaching locations. …Or both, is an option too.

Can’t wait to see what you come up with in this design! And don’t miss any other Moogly CAL blocks, follow them for 2025 here.

The Christine Quilt Block

A bit more symmetrical with the color placement

Red Heart With Love medium weight 100% acrylic yarn colors:

  • (A) #1538 Lilac,
  • (B) #1001 White,
  • (C) #1623 Mallard,
  • (D) #1207 Cornsilk

J/10/6.00mm crochet hook

Sdc= Standing double crochet. (If you don’t feel comfortable with this technique, substitute with Slip stitch in indicated stitch, chain 3)

A little more abstract in the color placement

Rnd 1: With A, Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, 3 dc in same ch, ch 1, change to B, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch, ch 2, sl st to join, turn. – 12 dc (3 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to A, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –28 dc (7 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Lets change colors

Rnd 3: With C, Sdc in to any solid color ch-2 sp corner, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each st across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to D, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, dc in each st across, (2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. –44 dc (11 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 4: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to C, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –60 dc (15 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Back to the original colors….if you desire

Rnd 5: With A, Sdc in any solid color ch-2 sp corner (note you can start the color above the same placement of A, or on the opposite side from A in the first round for a different effect), dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each st across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to B, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, dc in each st across, (2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. –76 dc (19 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 6: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to A, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –92 dc (23 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Another color change

Rnd 7: With C, Sdc in any solid color ch-2 sp corner (note you can start the color above the same placement of C, or on the opposite side from C in the third round for a different effect), dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each st across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to D, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, dc in each st across, (2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. –108 dc (27 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 8: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to C, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –124 dc (31 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

The Biker Hooded Poncho- I Do Love You Enough to Work In Black

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So, working in black yarn is a trial. This is because it can often be difficult to see the stitches. However when my young adult son asked for a hood poncho in black, how can I really say no? SO I hope you enjoy this working in black poncho pattern.

I have some tips that help to work in black, such as placing a white item (maybe a sheet, pillowcase, or even paper) behind the area I am working. Using some direct lighting, possibly over my shoulder, helps too. Another tip to use large hooks and create a drapey fabric.

This poncho is worked from the neck downward, in the round in a spiral fashion. The first round is worked in a foundation single crochet to have a bit more stretch than a typical beginning chain.

The stitch pattern is a simple single crochet, chain 1, skip 1 stitch. This stitch can sometimes be referred to as the “linen” stitch or “moss” stitch.

The Biker Hooded Poncho by Linda Dean

Skill Intermediate

Gauge 16 sc+ch1 sts/16 rows=4”

Materials

  • K/10 ½ /6.5 mm crochet hook
  • Berroco Vintage medium weight 52% Acrylic/40% Wool/8% Nylon yarn (218yrds/200m/3.5oz/100g) 10 skein color: #5145 Cast Iron

Special Stitches

Fsc: Foundation single crochet (This technique creates a foundation chain and a row of single crochet stitches in one) –

Step 1:Place a slip knot on hook, ch 2, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook and draw up a loop; yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the “chain”); yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the “single crochet”).

Step 2:Insert hook into the “chain” of the previous stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the “chain”), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the “single crochet”). Repeat for the length of foundation.

Start the Working in Black Poncho Pattern

Rnd 1: [Fsc 22 times, ch 2] 4 times, sl st to top of first st to join.

Now we start the stitch pattern

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, {ch 1, sk 1, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1] across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around, do not join.

Rnd 3: Sc in next ch-1 sp, {ch 1, sk 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 1] across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around.

Now we just keep repeating….

Rnds 4-78: Rep Rnd 3.

Rnd 79: {Working in back loops only, sc in each sc and ch across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around.

Rnds 80-81: {Working in back loops only, sc in each sc across to ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep around. Fasten off.

Working in black poncho pattern- Hood

Row 1: Working on the opposite side of the foundation chain, join at any point opposite the ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] across to same st as join, turn.

We work the same stitch pattern, but now we work it back and forth instead of in the round- note the beginning and ending changes

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch 1 sp] around to last st, sc in last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] across to last 2 sts, sc in last st, turn.

Some more repeating

Rows 4-70: Rep Rows 2-3. Fasten off.

Fold the last row in half so that the last st and first st are together. Seam along row.

Hood Edging

Rnd 1: Working in the edge of the rows of hood, with RS facing, join to Row 1, sc in each row end around, do not join.

Rnds 2-4: Working in the back loop of sts, sc in each st around. Fasten off.

Granny Square – Some Ideas and New Approaches.

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Granny Squares never really go out of fashion, but there are times they are all the rage. We are entering the rage time.

There are many ways to work a traditional granny square. They can be worked as one color or many. They can be work as join-as-you-go or sewn together later. Even the relatively simple stitch pattern as some variation.

I have stumbled across some techniques that I find handy when creating granny squares. When working in one color I prefer either working in the continuous round, or working half a corner and joining with a crochet stitch instead of a chain (this places the working yarn in the center of the corner without having to slip stitch across).

When working different colors each round I have found that joining with standing stitches really helps to give a nice clean look.

If you would like to try a hand at the granny square, check out this free pattern for my Granny Mug Jacket.

Granny Square Free Pattern

Granny Mug Jacket         by Linda Dean

Embrace autumn and crochet classics with this Granny Square Mug Jacket. This design is simple, classic, and stylish all wrapped together.

Size 3” tall x 9” wide  Skill beginning Materials G/6/4.00mm crochet hook, 4 colors Jamieson’s Naturally Shetland Double Knitting yarn Gauge Motif=3″x3″

Motif (make 3)

Rnd 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, [3 dc in same st, ch 2] 3 times, join, fasten off. 

Rnd 2: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp) ch 1] 3 times, join, fasten off.

Are you changing colors?

Rnd 3: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, 3 dc in ch-1 sp [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp), 3 dc inch-1 sp] 3 times, join, fasten off.

Lets get ready to join

Rnd 4: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp] 2 times, join, fasten off.

Join Motifs together creating a strip.

Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Two Different Closures

Edging

Loop Closure

Joint to any ch-2 corner, to work down the long edge, ch 1, sc in same sp,  sl st in each st along long edge to other corner, sc in corner, ch  15, sk entire short edge of rectangle, sc in next corner, sl st  across long edge of rectangle, sc in corner, ch 5, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Button Closure

Join to any ch-2 corner to work down the short edge, ch 1, sc in same corner, sc in next 2 sts, ch  10,  sc in next 6 sts, ch 10,  in rem sts on side to corner, sl st in each st around rectangle to first sc, join.  Fasten off.

Sew two  ½” buttons on the opposite side of the loops.

Info about the photo

So whenever I put up photos that show my kitchen counters, I get questions. It is a granite countertop, but the most questions come up about my back splash. It is actually tin that is treated to look like copper, and comes from the company American Tin Ceiling. I have had it for several years, it is easy to maintain and cheaper then tile, not to mention easier to install. No, I get no kick backs from this company, but I usually get a lot of questions.

Intermeshing Crochet- Weaving of 2 Fabrics

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Intermeshing crochet is essentially the creating of two crochet mesh fabrics. The fabrics are woven together at the time of creation; creating new visual effects.

There are a couple of different ways to begin the fabric. Started differently the weaving of the meshes being worked the same. Weaving is created by working double crochet stitches either in front or behind the mesh square of the other fabric.

The two mesh fabrics will actually be different sizes. One mesh will have an additional one column of “open mesh” windows in comparison to the other. This is to allow for an offset to the “front/back” of these stitches. This process ensures that the double crochet stitches will be centered in the “open mesh” of the opposite fabric.

Reading the patterns are harder than the stitches

The greater challenge to this technique is actually in the pattern reading. There are currently 3 popular methods to explaining patterns in Intermeshing. One is the standard written pattern that is found in other crochet fabrics, and the other two are charts.

One chart has two graphs, one for even rows, and one for odd rows of the pattern. This type of charting allows you to visually identify what the work should look like at each step. The second chart offers a quick short hand of how many stitches are worked and of what type (either front of back).

Make Intermeshing Crochet

Start by creating a first row of open mesh fabric. An even numbered chain iis created in the main color, double crochet in the 6th chain from the hook, [ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in the next ch] across. Remove hook from fabric and set aside.

Begin the second mesh fabric one of two ways. Create a chain that is 2 chains shorter than the main color chain. At this point you have a choice to make; weave the chain through or lay it atop the open mesh of the main color mesh Row 1. Neither is right or wrong, but will give you a slightly different visual end effect of the fabric. Weaving through will give you a pattern of alternating color, while laying atop will give you a line of straight color.

A double crochet stitch will again be worked in the 6th chain from the hook, but depending on the pattern this double crochet will either be worked in front of or behind the main color fabric and lining up with the second “open mesh” window of the piece.

Continue in pattern of either front or back across. At this point the fabric will be turned. Pay careful attention to what your pattern states here, as you are now going to remove your hook from the contrasting color yarn and work the next row of main color. The pattern will denote which side of the fabric the contrasting color fabric loop and yarn should be on (either the front of back of the fabric). This ensures that it is in the correct placement when that color row is started.

The Main color is only ever worked into the Main color, while the Contrasting color is only ever worked into the Contrasting color. Double crochet stitches will only ever be worked into double crochet stitches. Being mindful of these two truths will help you decipher where you are in the design.